maisyrowe
17KW Mod.# 0058730 It use to start on 1st try. Now it takes 3 times cranking over before it starts. The Choke Flapper opens as soon as it starts cranking, it does not give it time to choke. Is the solenoid bad? If I hold the choke closed it will start right up. Can someone help with this? Thanks Maisyrowe
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Canada_Guy
It may not be related, but I know it will be asked, when was the last time the valves were adjusted? It seems to be a very common item that causes hard starts.
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BrentB
When is the last time the spark plugs were changed?
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maisyrowe
Canada_Guy;52608 wrote:
It may not be related, but I know it will be asked, when was the last time the valves were adjusted? It seems to be a very common item that causes hard starts.


Valves have not been adjusted.


BrentB;52610 wrote:
When is the last time the spark plugs were changed?


Plugs have 1 hour on them.
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Peddler
The choke plate should cycle open and closed every few seconds. I don't recall if it starts out open but I think it may. I would check the valve adjustment first before I did anything else.
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maisyrowe
Peddler;52615 wrote:
The choke plate should cycle open and closed every few seconds. I don't recall if it starts out open but I think it may. I would check the valve adjustment first before I did anything else.


OK, I,ll try that. Thanks
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MacL
The choke does immediately open at the beginning of the first crank attempt, briefly, and immediately closes, but opens and shuts throughout most of the first attempt. It has different patterns for subsequent attempts. This is good, to allow time for a good field flash to occur.

It's going to be a fuel supply problem.

And there are so many things that can cause this problem.

Leaking plenum;
Loose screws on cork gaskets (fuel solenoid, and blank plate);
Diaphragm with a pinhole;
Loose union between plenum and demand reg;
Loose hose fittings on top of demand regulator;
Leaking diaphragm cover gasket;
Stuck valve in demand regulator;
Kinked gasket (sleeve) on intake pipe (usually only if previously disassembled);
Debris inside of mixer (ants, submersion);

All of this can be checked in 30 minutes. And unfortunately, telling you to call a technician is not the answer either. Because not all technicians are created equal.

A manometer is a must, and unfortunately I know technicians running around with no manometer. Call a big time dealer....ask for the guru. "The one that fixes everything he walks up on." Accept nothing less.
State your problem, not your diagnosis.
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murphy
Reasonably priced analog manometer.

[url]https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-78060-Complete-Test/dp/B0016H12KS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1528556039&sr=8-6&keywords=manometer&dpID=51LaaI9SzwL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch[/url]
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george6488
murphy;52775 wrote:
Reasonably priced analog manometer.

[url]https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-78060-Complete-Test/dp/B0016H12KS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1528556039&sr=8-6&keywords=manometer&dpID=51LaaI9SzwL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch[/url]



I have 2 of those and they work great.
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MacL
murphy;52775 wrote:
Reasonably priced analog manometer.

[url]https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-78060-Complete-Test/dp/B0016H12KS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1528556039&sr=8-6&keywords=manometer&dpID=51LaaI9SzwL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch[/url]



That's the exact model of manometer I have on my truck. Be sure you handle it with care, do not drop it, or toss it around. Do not over-pressure it. That model's max reading is 1.25 psi. Which is plenty... just don't put it on a 2# port. It will bend the bellows and it will no longer be accurate.
State your problem, not your diagnosis.
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Skip Douglas SkipD
A simple U-tube manometer for low-pressure applications is easy to build, very accurate, and quite inexpensive. Materials are all available at a place like Home Depot. The drawing I'm including here shows how simple it really is. The tube and the associated scale would typically be mounted to a board and the board could have a way to hang it or a set of adjustable legs that hold it vertical. Water Manometer Illustrated
Skip Douglas
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