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BillM
Gray wrote:


That is another point; we do not. The area we live in approximates 100k people in a 30 minute diameter. It never dawned on me that the company that arrived with two journeymen, an assistant, and a crane truck, would not be the proper entity to utilize for continuing service. And after verifying, neither are any of other 3 in the area. I was, erroneously, operating under the wrong paradigm. "Taking your Ford/Chevy/Dodge for service to the place you bought it."

(It was an erroneous assumption (although counter-intuitive), and I did not see the distinction on the Generac website because at that time I did not need to expand the search parameter beyond the minimum to select the installing dealer. It only show the distinction if there are dealers who perform sales and/or service and/or financing. Since all of the dealers in my geographic area only perform sales, the site does not list any other functions., and although upon searching you can discover that, if you are not looking for it, it will not necessarily list it.)


Fair enough, we all research our purchases differently, when you bought your Generac, were there more than 1 service provider in 2016 and they all have now gone out of business?  How many quotes did you get?  I don't think you made any bad assumptions, you just got caught up in something that happens rarely.  It's unfortunate.  I'm sure Generac will do all they can to take care of you.  They unfortunately don't operate their own dealer network and rely on private companies to become sales and service outlets.  A dealer may pop up in your neighborhood in 3 years, maybe not.    
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grsthegreat
the main issue i have with Generac is that they limit travel time to 1 hour reimbursed. sometimes i can fight them and get 2 hour, but only sometimes. If the unit had failed, there more willing to pay the extra. our problem is for me to drive a 4 hour roundtrip, someone has to pay it. most people dont want to cough up the $$ to do so, but why should I eat that cost. Ive talked a few people thru fixing their units on the phone with success. As far as valves go, once you gap them you might not even need to adjust anything. More than 1/2 the time a 25 hr unit wont need anything. Be careful pulling the valve cover off so you dont tear the gasket.
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Gray
grsthegreat wrote:
the main issue i have with Generac is that they limit travel time to 1 hour reimbursed. sometimes i can fight them and get 2 hour, but only sometimes. If the unit had failed, there more willing to pay the extra. our problem is for me to drive a 4 hour roundtrip, someone has to pay it. most people dont want to cough up the $$ to do so, but why should I eat that cost. Ive talked a few people thru fixing their units on the phone with success. As far as valves go, once you gap them you might not even need to adjust anything. More than 1/2 the time a 25 hr unit wont need anything. Be careful pulling the valve cover off so you dont tear the gasket.


grs,

Thanks for the tip; I have already laid in a few gaskets just in case, and am ensuring that I have all of the proper tools (feeler gauge, crow-foot wrench, inch-pound torque ratchet, anti-seize compound, etc) and have been reviewing both written and video-graphic iterations of the process. I will check valve clearance prior to avoid un-needed adjustment.

Questions:

1: Clockwise or counter-clockwise for fan rotation to obtain TDC?  (To complicate that matter, I am unsure what axis is used to determine the "clock-face" looking at the fan/engine as if one were facing a car radiator, or looking at the fan from behind it (e.g. the "drivers seat).

2. I have found the torque values for the rocker jam nut: (174 in- lbs (19.68 Nm) and also for the valve cover screws: 48 in-lbs (5.4 Nm). What is the proper torque for the spark plugs?
 
 
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grsthegreat
if its the 22 kw unit, those values are correct. i use 168inlbs for valves myself, only because generacs engine manual for the 999 engine states that value, while the diagnostic manual states 174. the spark plugs on the 22kw also torque at 168, so i just use that value.  the 11 kw only torques to 72 inlb.

Most techs just use one up and one down to adjust valves instead of top dead center. ive tried both of these methods and i get the same result with the feeler gauge. With the one up method you compress one valve fully then check the uncompressed valve.

also remember, when using a claws foot and torque wrench. always keep the clawsfoot 90 degrees off handle. if you use it with clawsfoot either ahead or behind the tip, the actual values will not be correct. torque wrenches are ment to have a socket attached directly to it. go online if you have questions...theres alot of discussion about this. i learned this in high school auto classes.
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Gray
grsthegreat wrote:
if its the 22 kw unit, those values are correct. i use 168inlbs for valves myself, only because generacs engine manual for the 999 engine states that value, while the diagnostic manual states 174. the spark plugs on the 22kw also torque at 168, so i just use that value.  the 11 kw only torques to 72 inlb.

Most techs just use one up and one down to adjust valves instead of top dead center. ive tried both of these methods and i get the same result with the feeler gauge. With the one up method you compress one valve fully then check the uncompressed valve.

also remember, when using a claws foot and torque wrench. always keep the clawsfoot 90 degrees off handle. if you use it with clawsfoot either ahead or behind the tip, the actual values will not be correct. torque wrenches are ment to have a socket attached directly to it. go online if you have questions...theres alot of discussion about this. i learned this in high school auto classes.


This is the GT-990 16/17kW

I will use the 168 inch pound number.

Clawfoot 90 degree angle inserted into knowledge base.

3 Questions:

1. Regarding turning the fan: clockwise or counter-clockwise, and is this facing the fan from outside, or from "behind" the fan?

2. What is the rationale for the on up/one down versus TDC? (Not debating it, just asking for knowledge.)

3. Yes or no on the use of anti-sieze paste on valve cover screws?
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78buckshot
Gray, while you are in front of the generator with your left hand on the fan and your right hand feeling the piston movement you will be turning the fan/crank counterclockwise if looking at the fan end. I use just a drop of motor oil on the valve cover bolts.
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Cobranut

1: Always rotate the engine in the same direction it normally runs.

2: Valve clearance is checked on the base circle of the camshaft lobe. (The area where there is zero lobe lift).  When either the intake or exhaust valve is fully open, the other will be on the base circle.

Doing them at TDC of the compression stroke just lets you adjust both without moving the engine in between.

3: I'm of the opinion that, unless specific instructions are given such as for rod, main, or head bolts, if a fastener doesn't need Loctite, i use anti-sieze.

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