JoeA
About to change oil and filter and have the same recurring doubts about what oil to use.

Scoured up the user manual that says straight 30 above 40 F.   But it seems wasteful to change to a "summer oil" and then to a "winter oil" as for cars, "back in the day".

I've been using synthetic 5w30 and seem to have no problem, other than there is always a little puddle under the engine.  Small, never gets too large, but annoying.  Can't seem to find it.  Replaced a clamp, not fixed.  But that is secondary to the type of oil to use.

Thanks.
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DanS26
Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic is fine.  I also have a 5502 with the GT530 engine and I also experienced the small oil leak.  It is most likely caused by loose bolts holding the breather tube.  I just removed the bolts but some blue Loctite on them and tightened them down snugly.  Don't get carried away with torque.....that is aluminum you are dealing with remember. My bolts were so loose you could unscrew them by finger pressure.  Known problem with the GT530.

Search posts on this site for help getting to these bolts.  Most helpful.

There is a kit and instructions that Ziller carries to perform the repair which includes longer bolts and a gasket but I did not use it.  That was in August 2015 and no reoccurring leak with just tightening the bolts.

Good luck.
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JoeA
DanS26 wrote:
Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic is fine.  I also have a 5502 with the GT530 engine and I also experienced the small oil leak.  It is most likely caused by loose bolts holding the breather tube.  I just removed the bolts but some blue Loctite on them and tightened them down snugly.  Don't get carried away with torque.....that is aluminum you are dealing with remember. My bolts were so loose you could unscrew them by finger pressure.  Known problem with the GT530.

Search posts on this site for help getting to these bolts.  Most helpful.

There is a kit and instructions that Ziller carries to perform the repair which includes longer bolts and a gasket but I did not use it.  That was in August 2015 and no reoccurring leak with just tightening the bolts.

Good luck.


Ahhh, I love it when my "throw in" questions provide a solution . . .  but downcast at being outside the warranty window.   Again.

Anyway, any links to specific instructions?   The kit is on backorder apparently, but, also apparently, is not really needed.   I did a search in the forums and find all pictures and links to them are gone.   I did a quick eyeball of the unit but did not see the culprit. 

I do have the engine pdf so can probably figure it all out, but, you know, a picture is a, well a bunch of words.
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DanS26
Most of the techs here would say if you are going to all the trouble of getting down to those bolts.....then just replace the gasket while you are there.  Probably good advice.

If I remember, I removed the battery and only moved the firewall without taking it out of the machine to get at the breather assy.  Also there are a few rivets that have to be drilled out that hold the firewall in place.  I replaced them with flat head bolts upon reassembly.

I'll see if I can't find more detail for your tear down.
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DanS26
This thread is the best I can do.......

https://www.zillerstore.com/post/10kw-gt530-oil-leak-9945793?pid=1306424425
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JoeA
DanS26 wrote:
Most of the techs here would say if you are going to all the trouble of getting down to those bolts.....then just replace the gasket while you are there.  Probably good advice.

If I remember, I removed the battery and only moved the firewall without taking it out of the machine to get at the breather assy.  Also there are a few rivets that have to be drilled out that hold the firewall in place.  I replaced them with flat head bolts upon reassembly.

I'll see if I can't find more detail for your tear down.


Yeah.  Looks like a lot of work.   I took another eyeball at it and taking out the battery seems necessary.   A lot of bolts to take out and likely those torx bolts in the corner too.   It kinda looks like the black "shroud" and foam need to get out of the way as well.  

Since I have never adjusted the valves, seems I need to do that too.  Not having the gasket adds up to "not happening today"\

I thought I has posted an old link that no longer works, http://zillerstore.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3687
that you provided once.
 
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DanS26
How handy are you?  If you can tackle a valve adjustment.....then you can tighten/replace/regasket the breather assy.  A tech can do the job in 45 min. but you better plan north of 2 hrs.

The trickiest part of the job is to manipulate the bolts out past the teeth of the flywheel.  A socket wrench on the flywheel nut will help immensely since you will have to rotate the flywheel incrementally.  Oh...yeah....don't drop anything.

The only other tricky part is to replace the shroud bolts on the backside of the engine during reassembly.  You have to do this blind and by feel only with one hand.  You can do it but a little patience goes a long way.

Good luck!
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JoeA
Thanks.   I'm pretty confident in my ability to do the job.  It is my willingness that is in question.   I have one of those cheapo "bore scopes" that might give me the views I need.   Mot visualizing the issue with the flywheel teeth though.  Are the bolts flanged or have a captive washer?  I'd think if one can get a socket on there getting them past the teeth should be no problem.  Famous last words.

Weather and waiting for gaskets, etc, will keep this a few days away.
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JoeA
I posted this also as a new topic, but thought posting it here also might trigger quicker response.  Forum Masters, please feel free to delete either one

>>
Attempting to do the breather mod on this engine.  Since the PIB mentions the blower cover and the intake manifold, after looking things over
got the blower shroud moved over far enough to scope things out.

I can see one bolt of the cover and it is finger loose.   I decided, rather than take out the firewall/bulkhead, to just remove the intake manifold, thinking that would save a lot of work and time.  I do have gaskets on hand.

But, after removing the 2 bolts per side on the intake manifold, it does not want to move.  From what I can see those are the only things holding it on and the engine breakdown diagram does not suggest otherwise.

Thinking it must be only gasket seal holding it, but I am very hesitant to try force without checking with experts.  

Decided to do this today as next few days may bring severe weather my way.  
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78buckshot
Those four hex socket bolts are the only one holding it to the heads, I think there are two small ones holding part of the plastic shroud to the intake. I assume you have the air box fasteners removed from the block.
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JoeA
78buckshot wrote:
Those four hex socket bolts are the only one holding it to the heads, I think there are two small ones holding part of the plastic shroud to the intake. I assume you have the air box fasteners removed from the block.


I gave the manifold a few taps with a rubber mallet and the gasket joints loosened up.  I did not expect the gasket remains to be so stubborn, took a lot longer than I hoped.

Job complete.   No leaks so far.
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JoeA
So after a exerciser last week, I found a small puddle of oil.   Initially irked, thought maybe I just did not clean up well enough and it was just residue that flowed down after a hot run.

During today's run, I cleaned it up, wiped up a bit more thoroughly than I did previously and spent some time looking for leaks.

Did not see any oil dripping or any new wet spots.    However, at the base of the engine, between the block and the steel of the mounting base plate, I could see a wet spot along the seam that appeared to "burp" a tiny bit, once in a while.

Think I still have a leak somewhere, or just did not clean well enough?
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78buckshot
It may take a while for all of the residual oil to migrate to the low spots. I would keep cleaning it up for a few runs.
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