DenisC
Model #: 005882-0 Serial 6047890
Propane or Natural Gas: NG
Length of gas pipe feeding the generator: 16 feet
Size of gas pipe feeding the generator: 1 inch
How long since the last full maintenance: July 2018
How long have you experienced this problem: 1 week
Unit installed January 2011

Description of problem:
Was outside today and looked at the indicator lights on the generator.  The red, green, and yellow lights were all lit up.  As recently as last Thursday the green light was on.

I opened the lid and the control panel display was blank.  
Got my test meter and measured battery voltage of 4.5.  
The 7.5 amp fuse is not blown.
Measured N1, N2, and T1 at connection block inside generator. N1 & N2 are 120V to ground, 240V between N1 & N2.  T1 to ground was 120V.

I had a problem back in September where all of a sudden I got inspect / low battery messages and never totally figured out why.  Battery tested good then.
https://www.zillerstore.com/post/8kw-battery-low-message-not-obvious-why-9946522?pid=1306435477

I’m unclear how to test to see if the charger is putting out any voltage to the battery.  Is it possible there is a loose / intermittent connection in the charging circuit?  It looks like from the schematic the charge comes from wire 13?  

Before I do anything I want to understand the correct way to test this.

I’m guessing I’ll have to replace the battery regardless....

Thanks in advance for any help.
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78buckshot
Depending on the condition and quality of the battery you may be able save it, put it on a 4 -10 amp charger for one hour then change over to a battery tender/maintenance style charger for a day or more, if it has cell caps check the electrolyte level. If you have another GOOD fully charged 12 volt battery of any size then you can use jumper cables to temporarily connect it to the battery cables in the generator. Check the voltage of the battery before you connect it, keep an eye on the voltage while connected, if the voltage is dropping the charger is suspect, if the voltage rises to 13.5 - 14.2 then your good.
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Peddler
How old is the battery?
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Peddler
The nexis controller charges the battery on an as needed basis and about the only way you can check it's operation is by checking the DC amp flowing into or out of the battery.  This can be done with a multi meter or with a clamp on amp probe that is capable of measuring DC amperage, most amp probes are not able to do this.  If the battery is more than 5 years old it should be replaced in any case.  If you don't have the measuring capabilities I would put a new battery in and see what happens.  If the battery is less than 5 years old I would guess you have a controller that is simply not charging the battery. 
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DenisC
Thanks Buckshot and Peddler.  The battery is about 3 years old - January 2016.

I have a fluke 115 true rms meter which I think has DC amps measurement.  If that meter is able to measure the charger output I’d need more specific instructions on how to do the measurement.

thx much
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Peddler
Set your meter to measure amps, disconnect the neg battery terminal and place one probe on the negative lead and the other on the negative post.  You should read the amperage from the charger.  It matters which probe you put where but without digging into a manual I can't recall for sure which goes to the post , if reversed it will read as a negative value.  Before you do that I would measure the battery voltage and see where you start and where you end up a few hours later.  I would check battery voltage with one of the cables disconnected and again with them connected, if the voltage jumps up then the charger is working.  The charger does not have any out put if the battery is not connected.  Therefore when you test for amp draw with your meter you need to leave it connected as described long enough for the controller to recognize battery voltage.   
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DenisC
Buckshot, I was able to resuscitate the battery using your charging process.  

When I took the battery out it didn’t seem that the negative terminal cable was real tight on the post.  That’s not the first time it seemed loose.  Not sure what I’m doing wrong when tightening it up.  I don’t bang the cable connector onto the post - I was told by an auto mechanic never to do that.

Peddler, outstanding instructions for the DC amp measurement.  After I got the battery charged back up I did the test and the charger was putting out 2.3 amps.  Is that what it should be?

Re-installed the negative cable on the battery, tried to be sure it was tight.  Voltage went up from 12.4 and was 12.7 last time I checked.

Raining now so haven’t been out to look again to see if voltage holding.

Thx for great help so far.
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Peddler
2.3 amp is about right and it should maintain about 13+ volts which can be read off the Nexis controller under display-battery.  you should maintain 13+ volts on an ongoing basis unless you check immediately after cranking the engine which could pull it down to 12 something.
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78buckshot
Dennis, I take the battery terminal bolt out of the clamp and spread the clamp enough so that it slips all the way down on the post, I wire brush the post and clamp prior to re-assembly. Hammers and batteries don't mix as your mechanic buddy said. If the clamp always seem loose it may be cracked and won't hold tension.
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DenisC
78buckshot wrote:
Dennis, I take the battery terminal bolt out of the clamp and spread the clamp enough so that it slips all the way down on the post, I wire brush the post and clamp prior to re-assembly. Hammers and batteries don't mix as your mechanic buddy said. If the clamp always seem loose it may be cracked and won't hold tension.


I’ll check the clamp closer tomorrow.  If it looks questionable I’ll see if I can find a new cable at the auto parts store.

thx again
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10kray
I too have seen that error message on my Eco Gen from time to time. I will apply these techniques I've read on this thread to my own situation. Wow, you guys are really amasing and thorough. I've learned something today. Thank you Ziller !
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78buckshot
We like to help, Ziller has graciously allowed us to do that.
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DenisC
78buckshot wrote:
Dennis, I take the battery terminal bolt out of the clamp and spread the clamp enough so that it slips all the way down on the post, I wire brush the post and clamp prior to re-assembly. Hammers and batteries don't mix as your mechanic buddy said. If the clamp always seem loose it may be cracked and won't hold tension.


The clamps looked OK.  Got the battery tested, and it tests OK.  I spread the clamp as you described and made sure the clamps were tight.

I just installed one of the genmon units on the generator so it will much easier for me to monitor the battery voltage now, and get immediate notice on any warnings or errors.

thx again for the help.
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78buckshot
Another part of the equation is the T1 input to the charger circuit, at the generator terminal strip you will find push-in or "stab" connections, I have found those at fault and not making good contact, check that item.
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DenisC
78buckshot wrote:
Another part of the equation is the T1 input to the charger circuit, at the generator terminal strip you will find push-in or "stab" connections, I have found those at fault and not making good contact, check that item.

I should be able to do that in the next few days when it stops raining.  I haven’t checked that yet.
Great suggestion, thx
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DenisC

78buckshot wrote:
Another part of the equation is the T1 input to the charger circuit, at the generator terminal strip you will find push-in or "stab" connections, I have found those at fault and not making good contact, check that item.

I checked these today (I took the fuses out of the transfer switch first) and the T1 and N1, N2 wires are captured firmly under the metal “ears”. It wasn’t clear to me what the mechanics were of releasing the ears to re-seat the wires so I left it alone.  
Am continuing to monitor.

thx for the help!

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78buckshot
10-4
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