78buckshot
I'm still finding overheating transfer mechanisms and melting plastic due to the factory screw lugs being loose. I'm referring to the small Philip or allen hex screw that secures the lug to the contactor bar. Just wondering if anyone takes the switch out to check these before you install them?
Quote
ohmslaw
78buckshot;51198 wrote:
I'm still finding overheating transfer mechanisms and melting plastic due to the factory screw lugs being loose. I'm referring to the small Philip or allen hex screw that secures the lug to the contactor bar. Just wondering if anyone takes the switch out to check these before you install them?


I wiggle the lug before any connections are made. If it is loose I take the switch gear out and tighten or replace the lug. it is sad that we have to do that but we have no other options with Generac gear.
Tim
Quote
78buckshot
I am seldom on site during the install, I'll have to make a note to the install crew to check them before they tie it in.
Quote
ceb58
ohmslaw;51201 wrote:
I wiggle the lug before any connections are made. If it is loose I take the switch gear out and tighten or replace the lug. it is sad that we have to do that but we have no other options with Generac gear.
Tim


78buckshot;51202 wrote:
I am seldom on site during the install, I'll have to make a note to the install crew to check them before they tie it in.


And I am sure some where there are torque specks on the screws. Too bad Generac doesn't adhere to their specks
Quote
Cobranut
I checked all the connections on my transfer switch before I installed it.
I don't recall any being "loose", but a couple were not as tight as I liked.
I pulled them all and reassembled with a drop of Loctite 242, or 222, as appropriate for the particular screw size.
Quote
MEC
Typically T1 & T2 move a bit and it's probably due to the fact of the fine strand attached to the other end of the bus. It's not a big piece of bus, so it tends to wiggle a bit.
Last one I took out that was like that was tight as tight can get.

Would be nice if the screws were on the front side though.
Having to remove the whole contactor is a PITA.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quote
ohmslaw
MEC;51270 wrote:
Typically T1 & T2 move a bit and it's probably due to the fact of the fine strand attached to the other end of the bus. It's not a big piece of bus, so it tends to wiggle a bit.
Last one I took out that was like that was tight as tight can get.

Would be nice if the screws were on the front side though.
Having to remove the whole contactor is a PITA.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I agree. I am sure Generac torques all of the lugs. The problem is that they cross thread the machine screws and that leaves the lugs with the correct torque and loose.
Tim
Quote
grsthegreat
I just had a new transfer switch that was cross-threaded from factory on one lug. Called Generac service and requested a control number and a replacement lug and screw. They honored the request, so at least I'm not out my labor to repair it. I just grabbed another switch from stock. My problem is why is this making it out of the factory like this. Luckily I was only a few miles from shop. The cross threaded lug was so loose and wiggly that it was real obvious there was an issue.

Last year I received a switch that did not have the Allen screw that attaches the transfer mechanism to the main breaker torqued down. They were semi-tight only. I didn't notice the issue at first, but the customer was having issues with lights flashing on and off all night long. I found the problem the next day, and since then I've been checking all lugs on transfer switches. For over a year, this is the only other one I've had issue with.

It does suck how long it takes to get to the lug screws.
Quote
MEC
Loose lugs

Just had one the other day. Was a new 11kW and the grounding lug was never tightened down.
Seems like we have to check all the factory connections now. Both the ATS and generator.

I would put a claim in, even if it gets denied just so they have a record of any loose items. Maybe they can crack down on this and find the people on the line.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quote
BrentB
Loose connections are not covered by warranty. It's written in the warranty statement. Installer is responsible to verify all connections in the field.
Quote
ralphbsz
That is obviously correct for connections that are intended to be made in the field. It even makes some sense for connections that are reachable from the front of the unit, without disassembling it, for example the connection from T1/T2 on the transfer switch to the bus bar of the breaker section on the transfer switch with integrated breakers.

But for connections that require disassembling the switch, like the ones on the back of the transfer switch that hold the lug onto the transfer switch contacts with small screws, that rule doesn't make much sense. Those should be torqued correctly at the factory. If vibration during shipment is a problem, that should be handled with lock washers, loctite, or something like that. Shipping a product with internal connections that are loose from from the factory, and that are hard to check during installation (because they require disassembling a complex device with small screws) is just bad quality control.

By the way, I did check those on my transfer switch, and they were fine. But then, I'm crazy and also checked everything else, like the spade lugs on the control wiring, and the terminal blocks in the generator.
Quote
grsthegreat
Had another transfer switch with factory loose nuts. This one was installed 1-1/2 years ago. No issues until a few weeks ago. The homeowner's generator kept starting up and running for 1.5 minutes, but didn't transfer load. This happened like every hour for 2 days. I came by to take a look, and sure as **** everything was working properly when I was there. The history log shows a lot of starts and 1.5 minute runs (or so). I called tech support and all they told me was to flash the software. I hung around for 45 minutes afterwards, but could see no voltage fluctuation on my meter. She called me last night and it was doing it again. She swore that no lights were flickering but the generator kept starting. I had her turn it off and I went out today and met with utility company to pull meter and check everything.

I started at meter and worked backwards re-tightening everything. When I got to the black hex head screw that attaches the offset bracket from breaker to transfer switch, the right side screw took 4 full turns to re-torque it down. As I looked closer I could see discoloration in the lug itself. this fixed the problem.

I called tech support and it goes to figure that the switch only has a 1 year warranty, so I'll eat the call costs. I wont charge the homeowner as its not her fault. The tech on the phone told me I should have checked all bolts during install. I informed him that they should check them AT THE FACTORY. What am I supposed to do, remove the transfer mechanism and re-torque the 6 hidden bolts, and then what, should I re-torque all bolts on the generator before placing it in service. He backed off then. I didn't want to push for labor charges ... I guess I was just happy that no appliances were fried or damaged.

In the future, I WILL check torque on all exposed bolts on transfer switch just to be sure... Beats having to drive 2 hour round trip to fix later.

I think Generac needs some better quality control on the line.
Quote
78buckshot
I guess we have to disassemble the engine and make sure the rod bolts are tight, and the flywheel, and the heads, and etc, etc, etc. I sure love the new and improve high tech high quality way we live today.
Quote