Ron Goldstein Rongold
Hi All,

I have a 2 week old 7043 Guardian generator. After the summer, I would like to install the 2 piece cold weather (battery & oil filter) kit. I have the kit already. I have no problems doing that, except worrying that when I press the retainer on the generator terminal board to install the wires into N1 & N2, one or both of the N1 & N2 wires might pop out and short to ground. To eliminate this possibility, I would either have to turn off the main breaker in the transfer switch, or pull the 3 fuses in the transfer switch. I really don't want to turn off the breaker as that would kill power to the whole house. Naturally, I would push the off button on the controller, pull the 7.5 amp fuse and disconnect the battery to make sure that the generator will not start. Instead of turning off the main breaker, I know I could pull all 3 fuses and that would kill the AC power to the N1, N2, and T1 wires from the transfer switch to the generator eliminating any possible short in case any wires pulled out of the terminal block. Have you guys seen the fuses in the new RXSW200A3 transfer switch ??? They are quite small---the same size as old tubular auto fuses from the 50's & 60s, and they appear to have glass tubes between the caps. I am afraid if I try to pull them that the glass will break as the enclosed fuse puller pulls on the center of the fuse. How about if I pull the 8 wire harness connector that plugs into the SACM ??? It has 2 yellows (N1 & N2), 1 blue (T1), and the other 3 color wires that are in the control harness. The control harness connects to a terminal strip that is part of that SACM. I think if I pull that connector, that whole control harness would be dead, and that is what I want---I wouldn't have to pull fuses (possibly breaking them) or turn off the main breaker and kill the whole house. What do you guys think ??? Thanks in advance for your replies.


RON
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nrp3
The fuses aren't that fragile.
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78buckshot
Unplug the connector if your concerned about the fuses but be aware of repeated use of Molex/Amprobe style connectors, it tends to loosen the sockets.
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Ron Goldstein Rongold
Well, I had nothing to do today, and the weather was only in the 70's. [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=13px]So, I switched the generator off, pulled the 7.5 amp fuse and disconnected the battery.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

I then removed the front & side panels and the cover on the electric terminal compartment and I pressed on the 2 retainers holding the N1 & N2 wires---Nothing moved. I then pushed on each spring loaded retaining tab for N1 & N2, and inserted the heater harness. I'll install the heaters when the weather cools down and after I change the oil to synthetic. HARD PART OF THE JOB IS DONE !!! Wasn't hard at all. I was worried that the N1 & N2 wires might pop out of the terminal block and short out, but they didn't. I guess they took a set already.

What does pulling the 7.5 amp fuse actually do ??? The display stayed on, even with the fuse out. In fact, the display stayed on without the battery connected too. The status light turned red as I figured it would. By the way, N1, N2, and T1 were still powered on, so that's probably why the display & light were still working, but as I asked above, what does pulling that 7.5 amp fuse actually disable ???
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78buckshot
T1 is 120 vac from the transfer switch to power the battery charger within the control board, the charger will keep the board alive with the battery disconnected. The 7.5 amp fuse is on the dc side of the controls and disables start and run. As a side note, we are located in southeast Michigan not far from Ziller, very few of our generators have cold weather kits, cranking and starting is normally not a problem even in the worst weather, just my 2 cents.
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BrianMartin
Having installed hundreds of cold weather kits, I can say I've had to strip some of the heat shrink off the tip of the wire harness on at least 50% of them, or they do as you said, pop out!
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Ron Goldstein Rongold
BrianMartin;n58829 wrote:
Having installed hundreds of cold weather kits, I can say I've had to strip some of the heat shrink off the tip of the wire harness on at least 50% of them, or they do as you said, pop out!


My harness had about 1/2" of tinned wire sticking out past the heat shrink---Just enough to engage and stay retained. I was worried that when I pressed on the retainer to insert the harness, that the N1 or N2 wire would pop out and short against the compartment wall, but those 2 wires did not move at all. I did not want to turn off the main breaker in the transfer switch and kill the house---too many things to reset, and I was afraid to use the fuse puller that comes with the transfer switch for fear of breaking the glass tubular fuses. I owned 3 service stations for 45 years and I remember trying to pull tubular glass car fuses with a puller that grabs the glass---It did not pull the fuse---It broke the glass and then you had to pry the caps out with a small screwdriver !!! It was easier to pry a cap out of the fuse holder prongs and then just grab the fuse with your fingers---But that was 12 volts, not 120 or 240 !!!
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