boca rat
Went to check on generator yesterday (about 10 years old, 146 hours on it), see the High temp warning light on. Did some research, measured resistance across the switch, says "1", which I think means no measurable resistance, right?

If I unplug the both connectors to the switch, generator runs fine.

So does it sound like I need a new switch, or board or something else? Is there anything else I can do before calling in a tech?

Lastly, what maintenance beyond semi-annual oil and filter changes should I be doing on this unit? Never really had a problem with it, would like to keep it that way!

Thx!
Quote
Skip Douglas SkipD
It would help if you provided the serial number (available on a tag stuck to the firewall between the engine compartment and the battery/controls compartment.

Also, what device are you using to make your measurements?
Skip Douglas
Quote
boca rat
SkipD;36827 wrote:
It would help if you provided the serial number (available on a tag stuck to the firewall between the engine compartment and the battery/controls compartment.

Also, what device are you using to make your measurements?


Yikes, that was quick, thanks SkipD.

SN: 4173431

Using a multi-meter, not easy to get at the contacts though.
Quote
Skip Douglas SkipD
boca rat;36828 wrote:
Using a multi-meter, not easy to get at the contacts though.
I don't understand the "1" that you say you read on your meter. What make/model meter are you using? I'd like to look it up and understand it better.

The high oil temperature switch should be "open" (infinite resistance) when it's below the trip temperature (approximately 284°F). When the switch is at or above the trip temperature, you should measure 0 ohms across the contacts.

To measure the contact resistance, the two wires that normally connect to the temperature switch should be removed from the switch.

If you show conductivity across the switch contacts when the switch is cold, you'll need to replace the switch.
Skip Douglas
Quote
boca rat
Yes, I removed the two wires to the switch when I (tried to?) measure it. Multi-meter is an Etek 10709. Found a manual here: [url]http://unmannedship.com/share/etek-digital-multimeter-10729-manual.pdf[/url]

It says "1" is open circuit which is what we want right?

So my problem is not the switch?
Quote
Skip Douglas SkipD
boca rat;36831 wrote:
It says "1" is open circuit which is what we want right?
Make sure you use a medium to high resistance range (I'd suggest 200KΩ or more) when checking for an "open contact". It's possible that you could have a high-resistance bridge across the contact that's seen by the controller as "high temp".

boca rat;36831 wrote:
So my problem is not the switch?
Assuming you get the "1" indication with the switch at ambient temperature and your meter dialed in to a medium to high resistance range, I would agree with this.
Skip Douglas
Quote
Peddler
The switch is normally open and closes on high temp. If measuring across the tabs you read a 1 then the switch is open as it should be. Try hooking the wires back up and start the unit and let it run and see if it faults again on high temp, it may be that the switch is weak and closing prematurely but opening back up after it cools a little. If it faults out after a few seconds I would check your meter. These do fail occasionally. Good Luck, Peddler
Quote
boca rat
Thanks both. I tried using a different scale for the resistance and now see it reading 1.5 when on a scale of 2k or higher, i.e. it only reads '1' when on the lowest 200 ohm scale.

@Peddler: Generator only runs for a second or two with both wires connected, then shuts down.

So I have a bad switch, right? If I swap this out, is it in an oil way and if so will it leak oil? Looks like the part number is 075281. Thanks to you both!
Quote
Peddler
No you can just take the screws out and it will come off to be replaced. No opening into the crankcase. Peddler
Quote
boca rat
Thx. I found the part on Amazon and eBay for $33 shipped, but would rather buy from Ziller as a thank you. However, can't find this part on the site. SkipD (assuming you work for Ziller) can you point me at it? Cheers
Quote
MEC
You want part # 094090 since it has the 990 engine.
It's the 293 F version.
Quote
boca rat
@MEC, I got the part number from my Installation and Owners Manual - part is the same for both 990 and 760. Is that wrong, or am I missing something? The manual also says 284F. I guess I should just pull off the current sensor and see if there is a part number on it.

Thx, appreciate your input.
Quote
Skip Douglas SkipD
boca rat;36845 wrote:
SkipD (assuming you work for Ziller) can you point me at it? Cheers
I don't work for Ziller Electric. I simply volunteer my time (from my home in Wisconsin) to help keep the forums running smoothly.

Call Kelly Myers at Ziller Electric at (888) 294-5537. Kelly is the owner and he could be quite busy. There are others there who can help you too.
Skip Douglas
Quote
Peddler
094090 is the correct part number and has a list price $11.23 plus I'm sure there will be shipping and handling. Good Luck, Peddler
Quote
MEC
boca rat;36847 wrote:
@MEC, I got the part number from my Installation and Owners Manual - part is the same for both 990 and 760. Is that wrong, or am I missing something? The manual also says 284F. I guess I should just pull off the current sensor and see if there is a part number on it.

Thx, appreciate your input.


The part numbers change from time to time due to revisions. Problems with a specific part which is discontinued or a part that may work better than the original and a new number issued.
We have the most current info available through GenService.
Quote
boca rat
Got it, thanks @MEC. So I try to remove the old one, and the bottom screw won't budge and because it's partially obstructed by the oil filter housing, and despite buying a set of long shank philips screwdrivers, I still stripped the head. And no way to get a locking wrench on the screw head. Any advice? Grrrr. Crap design.

I really don't want to mess with the oil line. Perfect example of what should be a 5 minute job taking hours.
Quote
MEC
Try a screw extractor.
Damaged Screw Remover Set - Extractor Set by Aisxle - Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws - Set of 4 Stripped Screw Removers [url]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014SH8F3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_XjECwbKBTJH83[/url]

The one I use is a Grabbit, but I don't see one on Amazon.
Quote
boca rat
MEC;36878 wrote:
Try a screw extractor.
Damaged Screw Remover Set - Extractor Set by Aisxle - Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws - Set of 4 Stripped Screw Removers [url]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014SH8F3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_XjECwbKBTJH83[/url]

The one I use is a Grabbit, but I don't see one on Amazon.


Thanks @MEC I'll give this a go and report back.
Quote
boca rat
I ordered that remover, but not sure if it will even work as I can't get a straight shot at that screw, I will be going in at an angle. Anyone know how well those screw extractors work on a very small screw head at an angle?
Quote
ericg
boca rat;36957 wrote:
I ordered that remover, but not sure if it will even work as I can't get a straight shot at that screw, I will be going in at an angle. Anyone know how well those screw extractors work on a very small screw head at an angle?


Those extractors work best when you have a straight shot at the screw head.
Did you try the next size up diameter screwdriver with some valve grinding compound on the head? The grit in the valve grinding compound tends to prevent the screwdriver tip from stripping out the head. I have used the compound many times with good success on stubborn or stripped screws.
Quote