cajungenset
Been a while since I posted, last time the forum helped me with replacing the control module!

Here again with another problem, we had some really windy weather the other day, yesterday I noticed the cover was up on my unit. All look good, until I try to start it up manually.

The engine cranked multiple times but would not fire. I pulled the air filter out and noticed the throttle blades completely shut. If I crank open the blades all the way it would start, once running, the governor motor would force the blades shut, and the unit would kill, It only ran about 15 seconds.

I read to look for a wire that is landed on #14, could I have a choke issue?, shouldn't the throttle blades initially go open to start? I definitely have natural gas as the unit did run briefly.

As always any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks- CajunGenset
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Peddler
Need a SN for your unit.
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cajungenset
8663689   thanks!
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cajungenset
In my manual it says to check the wire #14, looks like it should have 12vdc on it? not near the generator now but what does the wire do that would prevent a start up?
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Peddler
Ok so that is a Evolution 1.0 controller and there is no choke.  The smaller throttle plate should move to a slightly open position when it starts to crank but before that a soon as it gets it command to start the stepper motor should cycle the throttle all the way open and then closed then to partially open position of the smaller opening.  If it isn't doing that then your first stop is to figure out why it isn't.  I would try to reboot the controller by totally de-powering it and then repower it to see what happen.  It could be a bad stepper motor or it could be a loose plug on the stepper into the controller.  The #14 wire goes to the fuel solenoid and should get power after it cranks over for a revolution or two, it gets the cranking signal from the 18 wire going to the coils.
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cajungenset
Thanks Peddler, I'll try the reboot first and then check #14 wire , I should have that since it will run when I open the choke manually. The stepper motor is working as I feel it trying to throttle it down as it starts.
Thanks will let you know 
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Peddler
The key is to see if the stepper is cycling through the complete range before it cranks.  Also what is your firmware version?
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cajungenset
No luck with the reboot , still no start. The stepper motor DOES NOT cycle open or move the choke once I hit the manual button. I see minor movement maybe less than a quarter travel back and forth but never does open fully before or during cranking. 

If I manually hold the both butter flies open and it runs, I feel the stepper motor trying to close it until its shuts it self off through the stepper motor. I too kind of remember the throttle blades going full open during the cranking cycle and closing during start, but it no longer does that.

Also how can I tell what firmware I'm at. Is that under the Dealer screen. Or do I need to power it down and power it up to see the firmware?
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Peddler
Again this unit does not have a choke just two different size throttle butterflies.  I suspect you will need to replace the controller.  The firmware is under one of the edit screens, we are currently on firmware 1.20.  I have also recently been told if you reboot the controller with a firmware thumb drive in it will pick up the complete program and sometimes bring a controller back from the dead but I haven't tried it yet.
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cajungenset
Peddler attached is a video of what the butterfly is doing, again I believe it should go wide open during crank, but it just moves in short steps. Please let me know what you think. I'm at  Firmware 1.18 and hardware 1.06. Could I have a bad governor?
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cajungenset
bump for help
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exrace
Have you tried unplugging the stepper controller a few times? Might be a bad connection.
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MacL
Looking at the video, that stepper is malfunctioning.  Unplug it from the front bottom edge of the controller and using an ohmeter take 5 measurements on the end of the cable.

Resistance from red to each of the 4 other wires should be 10-12 ohms.  Then from red to the stepper motor case or shaft should be infinty.  If any of those five readings are out of spec you will need a mixer assembly.  

If the readings are all in spec, you will need a controller.  Both verdicts assume the stepper cable itself is not damaged, it could have been sucked into the fan the way it typically dangles.

Keep in mind to reboot the controller requires disconnecting both the battery AND the battery charger primary (T1).  When the controller is depowered there will be no lights and no display whatsover.
State your problem, not your diagnosis.
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cajungenset
Had 62 ohms from Red to Brown and red to Black 

the rest is all 11 ohms. Guess I’m changing the governor.

thanks for the help!!!
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MacL
The part number on that sticker in the video is 0J7782, and that is the correct part number.  It did not show up on the Ziller store webpage, but I'm sure they could get it without delay.

You are in the final 8 months of a five year warranty, which means all that is covered until 8/24/19 is the engine and the alternator only, no labor or travel coverage.  So you have to pay for the mixer and pay the labor as well.  You may be able to purchase extended coverage, just letting you know that's out there, they may have sent you offers.  This mixer assembly will be about $190.  

Spray wd40 as best you can on the inside end of the hoses, leave the clamps where they are and pull the hoses off. Remove the angled air duct and the plastic plug in the bulkhead.  Reach through with an allen wrench (5mm?) and remove the two socket head bolts.  Remove the 2 screws holding the lower airbox to the engine.  Unplug the stepper and pull the wire through.  

Stand at the left end of the generator, grab the airbox close in to the mixer so as not to break any plastic, and rock it clockwise and counterclockwise while pulling firmly but not excessively.  Take your time; as long as it's moving.  When a crack opens, you can spray wd40 in there if it isn't moving.

Once it's off, transfer the lower airbox, put some engine oil on the fuel pipes, put some engine oil on one or both mating surfaces to aid in assembly.  What you can get off the dipstick will be plenty in each case.  Press the new mixer onto the manifold.  Start all 4 bolts before tightening any; push the rubber hoses onto the pipes with clamps still in their position.  Thread the cable and plug it in, you're done.
State your problem, not your diagnosis.
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cajungenset
ITS FIXED!

Replaced the Mixer and she's back up and running.
Thanks for all the help !
Note Fuel lines were very snug, the WD40 trick helped....
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MacL
Good job, you're welcome!
State your problem, not your diagnosis.
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