DaleH
Model #:0058702 Serial #:7841659 Propane stand alone off grid installation.

Hello,
My generator has been working fine since installation in early 2013. It supplies power to a barndo/camp. Mr friend needed to weld his deer feeder, the battery was dead so he jumped it. Supposedly it ran but I am doubting that at this point I was not there. I tried to start it Sunday and the fuse was blown. I tried replacing and it pops the fuse immediately when I try to put it in. The controller does not light at all....not even blink. I removed the dead battery and jumped it straight to the leads with no battery. The fuse still pops. So I tried to jump it straight to the starter. It spins but does not engage the flywheel. So I am at a loss of what to do next. I do not understand the computer/controller aspect of it. It has been working wonderfully up to this point. I need direction on where to go next from folks that know and found this forum.

If the controller is blown, ultimately all I want is to be able to start it and turn it off. I would be happy to bypass/get rid of/remove all the electronics if possible. Make it simple like a lawnmower. Turn it on and turn it off. Actually I would prefer this method vs. the electronics.

Please provide any advice possible. I need my generator for deer season coming soon.

Thanks for your help and have a WONDERFUL day,
Dale
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Pville
With all the different safety checks, controls, the way it is pre-wired and programmed, I don't think you'll be able to do away with the control panel. Simple example - low oil pressure cutoff - no control panel to cut the engine = no engine. Also - no controller, no battery charger. I'm sure the techs on the forum can add much, much more. Just my 2 cents.
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UPS
It's possible the jumper battery was connected backwards. If so it could have damaged the controller. It would take a lot of redesign to make the unit work without the controller, if even possible.
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John R
UPS;35083 wrote:
[B][I][U]It's possible the jumper battery was connected backwards[/U][/I][/B]. If so it could have damaged the controller. It would take a lot of redesign to make the unit work without the controller, if even possible.


That'd be my first guess.
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Birken Vogt
I am sure I could make one work without the controller and I am almost as sure I will never have a reason to do it.

You would need

-Aftermarket controller or relay logic
-Aftermarket AVR
-Battery charger
-Maybe some other module depending
-Lots of wire and terminals
-Lots of time
-Several tries and at least an extra day to work all the bugs out of the system

Jump started backwards is my guess too, probably has a shorted crowbar diode in it somewhere but does the OP know how to find that and replace it? If not it is probably time for a new controller.
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MEC
I'm in agreement with Birken.
You can make it work, but it would be time consuming and cost prohibitive.
A new controller is plug and play.

Says right in the owners manual on page 13 that reversed connection to the battery will result in damage.

How are you charging this "off grid" battery?
Is power for T1 being pulled off one leg?
It's been said here before (by Peddler) many times that if the charger isn't working there would only be enough power for about 12hrs. The controller gets its power from the battery when T1 power isn't available, so eventually it will drain down to nothing and die out.
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ohmslaw
I would disconnect the positive control wire to the crank solenoid and try a new fuse. Not the battery cable but the control wire.
Tim
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DaleH
Well I brought the battery back with me and it will not charge, so it finally died on me. I have been charging it with a solar panel. It would keep it up. I would remove the fuse each time after use to assist in not draining the battery.

Well my guess is my buddy jumped it backwards. He is not very mechanically inclined, but I did not think this would happen.

Tim I will remove the positive control wire and give that a shot. I may be back out there this Friday to try it.

Meanwhile, what is a ballpark cost to replace a controller? My friend knows I am troubleshooting this thing and will probably offer to pay for it.

Much appreciate all the feedback!!!
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MEC
Please call Ziller for a quote on that controller.
Have the model and serial number handy and if they don't have one it can be ordered.
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BrentB
Need 0H6680D control board. With out it how would you control speed and frequency?
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Birken Vogt
BrentB;35136 wrote:
Need 0H6680D control board. With out it how would you control speed and frequency?


Standalone governor

Not easy or cheap but can be done and frequently is on larger sets
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BrentB
So, buy a bunch of aftermarket parts intended for other uses and attempt to adapt them to run this genset? Sorry, bad idea! Just get the proper part!
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Birken Vogt
Not saying it should be done, just saying that is what it would take to avoid buying the proper board. It would be way more expensive and less reliable than to just go for the integrated stuff as it should be and send the bill to whomever it belongs.

Back to the subject, OP, do you know anybody who repairs electronics? Ask if he can repair a "crowbar diode", if he knows what this is, then the existing board may be repairable, although I have not been inside one to know for sure if this is a likely cause.
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