mikebaglini
Greetings,

Just powered up my new 11kw generator and activated the unit.  Have no wires connected to it at this point (they are there, but I am troubleshooting).  When I check the voltage between E1 and Neutral I get 123V.  When I check between E2 and Neutral I get 0 ish V.  Do I have something that is defective, or does the ground need to be connected to earth?  (I had this wired to the xfer switch and everything was connected there properly, except I have not moved the service yet from the meter to the xfter switch).  Seemed to be only getting 123V on E1 at the xfer switch, so I backtracked and attempted to isolate the issue.

Thanks for your help.

Mike
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JayH
Yes, something is wrong. It could be the MLCB, the stator, or the wiring. Check to make sure that all connections are tight, starting with the E2 connection to the MLCB. Is the insulation not stripped sufficiently and trapped under the terminal screw? With the generator off do you see low resistance between E1 and neutral and also between E2 and neutral? In the vast majority of installations you should NOT tie neutral to ground at the generator itself. Doing so won't fix this problem.
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mikebaglini
Yes, thanks... after reading your response I took off the cover to get a view of the MLCB and you're right.  The rear connection block on one of the breakers was bent way back and rather lose to the breaker itself, and the screw was all gouged.  The one on the right was nice and square to the breaker and not nearly as loosely connected to the breaker, and the screw pretty clean.  Running the generator both sides of the MLCB read a little over 240V, so the breaker connection is faulty/unreliable.  Can I replace this with something from home depot?  Perhaps it's best to contact Generac since it's under warranty, explain the issue and request they send me a new MLCB.  The install will be trivial.

Thanks for your assistance!
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JayH
mikebaglini wrote:
Can I replace this with something from home depot?  Perhaps it's best to contact Generac since it's under warranty, explain the issue and request they send me a new MLCB.  The install will be trivial.
Thanks for your assistance!


Home Depot is unlikely to have that style of breaker. Is there a Graybar near you? If so they'll probably have it. Generac should replace it under warranty if it's activated but I don't think they'll just send you the part. You'll probably have to go through the "call a dealer" dance with them and have a local dealer come out. Take pictures of it and send to Generac. If they insist on having a dealer come out, ask the dealer to make sure they have one on the truck.

It should be relatively inexpensive. If you don't want to go the warranty route you can order one from Ziller and they'll look up the part number for you if you provide model and serial numbers.
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Peddler
If this unit is new why are you not getting it fixed under warranty or if this was a fault of the installation have that person fix it.  In any case if it is a new generator I would not be putting any parts on it that did not come from Generac.
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78buckshot
I agree with Peddler.
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mikebaglini
Thanks all for the feedback.  The unit is new as of two years ago... taking a while to get the install in place, so recently activated, but seems the 2 year warranty has just expired.  I ordered a replacement breaker, so I should be good.
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patmurphey
I thought installation and activation triggered warranty start. Is there a specified limit to any specific delay from purchase?
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Ron Goldstein Rongold
I thought the warranty starts on the day of activation.
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BrianMartin
It does start on day of activation. You should have warranty. Post the SN and we can check.
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mikebaglini
Thanks, that's good to know.  Considering I live an hour away from the nearest dealer, and they don't return my calls after leaving detailed information, it's highly likely they're not interested in warranty work.  Thank goodness it's not an expensive or complex issue to resolve.  Breaker arriving today, and will be installed the next time I visit the property with the generator.  Glad this site exists, as I can see lots of good information willing to be shared.

Thanks.  I'll go through the unit good looking for screws, clamps, etc... and making sure they are tight.  When I removed the factory installed breaker, I noticed one of the screws on the load side was not as tight as it should have been.

The next thing I learned from this site, is to leave the factory/break-in oil in place for 30 - 50 hours.  I have read 30, and read 50, and also read for the entire term of the service period (200 hours)... so will do more digging on this topic to get a better understanding of what makes best sense, before switching over to synthetic oil.
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BrianMartin
As far as break in oil goes, I think a lot of people will tell you a different story, including different Generac tech support guys.. Some will say there's no need to remove the break in oil early, some will say there is no break in period required on the new units.... I personally wouldn't worry about the amount of hours you have before you change the oil the first time. Some dealers change it when installing a cold weather kit (even at 0 hours), others wait 20-50 hours as you mentioned, whether or not they've installed the cold weather kit. These aren't high performance race engines, the results between 20 and 50 or even 100 hours before the first oil change are negligible IMO. 
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Cobranut
BrianMartin wrote:
As far as break in oil goes, I think a lot of people will tell you a different story, including different Generac tech support guys.. Some will say there's no need to remove the break in oil early, some will say there is no break in period required on the new units.... I personally wouldn't worry about the amount of hours you have before you change the oil the first time. Some dealers change it when installing a cold weather kit (even at 0 hours), others wait 20-50 hours as you mentioned, whether or not they've installed the cold weather kit. These aren't high performance race engines, the results between 20 and 50 or even 100 hours before the first oil change are negligible IMO. 


I agree with Brian.  Unless I lived where temperatures are EXTREMELY cold, I'd leave the original oil in for at least 20 hours or so, and would change it whenever it was convenient to a full synthetic oil, (or as close to full synthetic as you can get these days.)  Whether that is at 20 hours or 100 hours makes little difference.

I changed my diesel to synthetic at 25 hours, mainly to have the synthetic in it before the second winter.
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Wireform
mikebaglini wrote:
Thanks, that's good to know.  Considering I live an hour away from the nearest dealer, and they don't return my calls after leaving detailed information, it's highly likely they're not interested in warranty work. 
I've had similar experiences with other warranties and learned not to get into detail like you described. That just throws them off and you'll never see a visit from them. One tech guy said to me, these are the kind of customers that make my job harder if not impossible. If they voided the the warranty due to an improper repair or the like it becomes a whole argument. Lesson to be learned, it's your job to call and thier job to figure it out unless the return call is "what's going on or not going on" and be more vague than not. 
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