RJRENTON
Gentlemen,
Has anyone experienced with the dip stick being stuck in the sheath on the engine? I was doing my monthly PM service checks on unit my unit and found the dip stick being "stuck" almost to the point of breaking off the T shaped pull handle. I rotated the handle slightly in case the sealing O ring was stuck to the sheath. After much fiddling with the dip stick, I was able to extract it and check the oil level. Prior to re insertion, I coated the O ring and body with crankcase oil. The dip stick was difficult to insert it to the proper depth. AND immediately tried to extract the dip stick .... it was VERY TIGHT and required the same degree of effort initially required.
The engine was cold prior to my checks...upon checking with a hot engine, the same degree of effort was required to pill out the dip stick. Do I need a new dip stick or sheath or assembly??
Suggestions and or comments would be appreciated.
Bob Renton
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Skip Douglas SkipD
Bob, I have an identical problem with the dipstick in my 10--year-old model 5416 (18kW air-cooled) generator. If I remember to check the oil level more frequently and wipe the o-ring on the dipstick with oil, it is not a serious problem. However, it was stuck pretty tightly last week when I did a full PM on the generator. I'm going to try using some silicone grease that I have to lube the dipstick o-ring.

Skip Douglas - forum moderator
Skip Douglas
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RJRENTON
Skip,
Thanks for the suggestion .... I'll try the silicon grease fix. I have some Dow Corning hi temp silicon di-electric grease (450 degree F melting point). JUST I CASE, is Ziller a source for a replacement dip stick and O ring assembly....? Its the 999 CC engine.
Regards,
BOB Renton
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Hodgy
On my 17 KW I have never had it stick that bad but it sometimes is a tussle to get it out. I wonder is it the O ring / T-handle that is the problem or farther down the tube ?

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Peddler
No known cause but I would say that 5% or possibly less are tight like you describe. Can't tell you what causes it.
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78buckshot
I have found a good number of units with tight sticks, when cold they are not so bad but after warm-up some are very tight. I pull the dipstick and let it cool down while changing the oil and filter. I think the plastic expands with the heat. If yours is too tight even with a cold engine I would remove the o-ring and reduce the diameter of the plastic until it fits better.
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RJRENTON
Gentlemen,
Thanks to all for the suggestions and opinions.
what I ultimately did was pull the dip stick and removed the sealing O ring. Using a medium grit sandpaper, I reduced the outside diameter of the dipstick barrel dimension by approximately 0.001", thoroughly cleaning the dipstick, using aerosol "disc brake parts cleaner" to insure no sanding grit remains, installing the sealing O ring and coating the dipstick's plastic barrel and O ring with the silicon grease mentioned previously.....result....problem solved....just a gentle pull is all that's required to extract the dip stick .... hot or cold engine.
Regards,
Bob Renton
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Skip Douglas SkipD
RJRENTON;n58591 wrote:
Gentlemen,
Thanks to all for the suggestions and opinions.
what I ultimately did was pull the dip stick and removed the sealing O ring. Using a medium grit sandpaper, I reduced the outside diameter of the dipstick barrel dimension by approximately 0.001", thoroughly cleaning the dipstick, using aerosol "disc brake parts cleaner" to insure no sanding grit remains, installing the sealing O ring and coating the dipstick's plastic barrel and O ring with the silicon grease mentioned previously.....result....problem solved....just a gentle pull is all that's required to extract the dip stick .... hot or cold engine.
Regards,
Bob Renton


Bob's procedure is exactly what I plan to do on my old 5416 and my friend's 2-year-old 11kW unit today. Mine is a borderline problem but his is so bad I could not get a good reading of the oil level.

I wonder if the plastic part of the dipstick expands with contact with oil or oil vapor.

Skip
Skip Douglas
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Skip Douglas SkipD
SkipD;n58593 wrote:


Bob's procedure is exactly what I plan to do on my old 5416 and my friend's 2-year-old 11kW unit today. Mine is a borderline problem but his is so bad I could not get a good reading of the oil level.

I wonder if the plastic part of the dipstick expands with contact with oil or oil vapor.

Skip


The dipstick in my 5416 (2008 vintage 18kW) only needed about .0015" taken off the plastic plug section and application of some really good silicone grease (Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease which I used in my former life working on industrial process control systems).

The dipstick in my friend's two-year-old 11kW G0064371 was super-tight and it took removing about .003" from the plastic plug area and application of the grease to make it easy to pull out when cold.

The dipstick tubes on both generators had different internal diameters that were consistent with how much material I wound up removing from the plug sections of the dip stick handles.
Skip Douglas
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78buckshot
Internal crankcase pressure will blow oil from any small leaking area, just take care not to remove too much plastic and create a fit that is too loose.
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Hodgy
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Yesterday was the 17's monthly exercise. If I am around I open the lid, check the oil and wait to see if the mixer assembly moves before the unit tries to start. I have had problems in the winter with the stepper motor not cycling the linkage before starting. I have been using silicone spray, I have since switched to graphite spray on the linkage.

Due to this thread I paid attention to how hard the dip stick was to remove. It was as usual a bit hard but not impossible. Had a close look at the orange moulded T-Handle and found a moulding ridge running North/South on the shank where the O-Ring sits.

Took some fine emery paper and took off the ridge and smoothed off the rest of the shank. Cleaned it up, coated with silicone grease and re-installed the dip stick.

It slides in and out slicker than goose stuff on green grass.

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