I hope creating a new and expanded post for this problem is not violating some forum rule.
Two weeks ago I posted:
A comment from d11gnccer: The problem has occurred again ( no start, choke open) prompting me to call my dealer as the unit is still under warranty. He is an hour away so is reluctant to come if I can do something. He wants me to bend the choke plate to prevent it from hanging up.
My reluctance to follow his directions comes from the fact that I am not convinced he really understand the choke and how it functions.
My dealer/salesman/ owner's son says all the units he sees (which happens when he switches them from natural gas to propane when they are inside his heated warehouse) the choke plate is open. I don't believe he has any field experience!
My question to forum members is as follows: Does the ambient temp make a difference as to the initial status of the choke plate? i.e. In the summer does the unit still try to start with the choke closed.
A further thought..... does it make a difference if the generator is not connected to a battery as far as the initial position of the choke is concerned?
I am trying to figure out why this guy seems to have his facts screwed up!
I would like to fully understand how the choke functions under all conditions before I challenge the dealer.
Thanks for any help.
Just speculation here so take it for what its worth...
The Choke plate on these engines is not a choke in the gasoline fueled sense that we are all accustomed to. It probably does richen the mixture slightly although its main objective is to create (or insure) enough vacuum to open the demand regulator.
If generac would remove that POS and return to the old internal reg with a reliable electric fuel shut off, I would be like the maytag repairman. I guess they are doing it to meet some EPA mandate and are probably not really to blame.
Agreeing with Gman. It is not per say a choke. The old automatic chokes on gas engines had a thermal spring in them. When it was cold the spring would draw the butterfly closed and as the engine warmed it opened. I think one reason they went to this crap was generators exploding due to the valves leaking.
I have a 35kw LC unit that gave problems like this and this is what I observed and did to fix the unit.
When sitting the butterfly was in the open position, as the unit was turning over the stepper motor would open and close the butterfly. Some times it would go into the third crank cycle before it would start. Then after it started you could turn unit off and re-crank and it would fire right up.
The conclusion was during its off time the LP vapor would dissipate from the line and carb. The demand regulator has a "flap" in it that will only open under vacuum from the engine to allow the fuel in the lines. In its first cold crank cycle the engine was not getting fuel. I adjusted the secondary reg. to max. water column for that unit. I also installed hotter firing plugs to ignite a lower amount of fuel coming in at first. And cleaned and reset the mag. pick up. So far this seems it has fixed the problem.
I would say this. First the unit is still under warranty I would not go bending any thing. This would/could be a easy way out by saying you voided the warranty.
Secondly, tell the dealer to get his ass out there and fix it. It is not your job or responsibility to do his work for him. If he cannot or will not come and/or fix it call Generac and ask for another service dealer in your area.
Thirdly, I would make sure they check the WC on the gas line into the demand regulator, check the demand regulator its self,( had one that the "flap" was stuck on the diaphragm and couldn't open) and check the stepper motor to make sure it was working as should and getting the right voltage to it.
After rereading you post you could have water in the fuel line causing the flap to stick closed.