ozzie7
Generator = 0052430
Serial # = 4633167

My problem is during a Utility Power out simulation:
Generator switch is on auto... with green light ON @ System Set.
I turn off utility at main... generator starts and runs at full rpm.
Then at 15 seconds when it should switch I hear a faint click in the ATS.

Power does not switch to generator... wait for a couple minutes... nothing.
Turn utility power back on... generator runs for a minute or two and shuts off... as if everything is fine.
What do you experienced folks recommend I do to troubleshoot the problem?
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grsthegreat
You should hear a loud noise when transfer switch swaps over. First thing i would do is take off transfer switch covers and observe what is happening when its trying to switch over. Also, make sure yellow manual transfer handle is NOT  installed. I have seen these stupid handles cause alot of grief.

ive Seen Everything from burnt coils to bugs within the transfer mechanism underneath

the cooling fins cause this issue. First thing you heed to see is if anything is loose with the 2 wires leaning to the lower coil.

take a picture of exposed switch and post here.
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ozzie7
Thanks for the reply.
Here's a couple pics.
Things look good in here I think... as far as looks goes.
I want to check E1 and E2 for Generator voltage.
My switch doesn't have them labeled like I see in some manuals.
I marked what I think they are in red... does that look right?
And what do you use for ground when checking voltage?
Is the green wire good to use as a ground when using a meter for voltage checks?
Or maybe the bare copper wire in the background would be better?

[omUN66X]

[UXsjqPH]    
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78buckshot
ozzie7, with the generator running you should see 240 - 245 vac at between E1 and E2 or half of that voltage from ground to either one of them. Check the Main line circuit breaker in the generator, throw it back and forth a couple of times and leave it in the on position.
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Cobranut
I think E1 & E2 are the input from the genset. 
When the genset is running you should have approx 240vac between those two terminals, and 120v from each to neutral, which is the white wire.  It should be connected to the neutral busbar, as neutral is not switched. 

Be very aware that there are exposed energized conductors in there.  Remove rings, watches and chains, and it's best to work with one hand as much as possible.

Your problem may be a loose connection on one of the coils or limit switches, or a misadjusted or defective limit switch. 
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ozzie7
Thanks... I treat anything electrical like this as if it was a 7 headed Cobra in strike mode... locate everything that could bite me first... then keep an eye on them.

I have some quick questions.

1. Is my labeling of E1, E2 correct?

2. Can I run the generator in manual mode while leaving the Utility power on when I'm checking the voltages?

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78buckshot
Yes and yes.
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ozzie7
When the gen is running with Utility off... I have 125v from E1 to common/ground... and 125v from E2 to common/ground.
No voltage between E1 and E2.
Flipped the breaker on the gen back and forth several times... no change.
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Cobranut

Sounds like you have one leg of the generator with no output.  Could be the breaker or an open connection somewhere along the line.

Check the input of the breaker on the genset to see if you have 240v there.  If so, disconnect E1 and E2 at the X-fer switch and see which one has no voltage, then trace back toward the generator until you find the open connection.

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78buckshot
Remove the black steel control cover, two 10mm nuts and two 7mm bolts. The circuit breaker will be exposed and you should read 240 across the input side of the breaker. You can also read from each terminal to common or ground and figure out if one leg is dead. The conductors into the breaker will be marked #44 and #11, those come directly from the stator and probably will not have any damage between the stator and the breaker. If you have output on only one of them the stator is faulty.
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ozzie7
OK thanks gents.
I'll check the items mentioned and report back.
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ozzie7
Some damn Mud Daubers found their way in and made a nest on #11 wire connection at the breaker as you can see.

Backside of breaker looks good aside from the installer missed a couple strands of copper.

So I should see 240v across the #11 and #44 wires right?

If not... the generator probly $hit the bed.

[cB0oMFU] 

[1GiEzM1]
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ozzie7
I get 251v across the top of the screws of the IN side of the breaker where #44 and #11 connect.
125v on each one at a time to common.
I get 21v on the red wire (#11 wasp nest side) on the OUT (backside) of the breaker.
125v on the black wire (#44 side) on the OUT (backside) of the breaker.

Is it safe to say you guys helped me find the problem... which is that the breaker is bad?
Or is there something farther down the line that could affect the voltage on just one side of the breaker?

If it does sound like the breaker is bad to you all... where would you acquire one?
Edit: Duh... maybe at the Store & Parts link at the top of the page.

Also the red led light in the second pic is ON when the gen is running... Is that normal?

[EIF5mY9] 
[4K43RhZ]
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grsthegreat
Ya, looks like breaker issue. You could try unhooking all wires and cleaning and retorquing and check again. Otherwise try new breaker
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DougO
Yes red light being on is normal, that is your voltage regulator. You want it on as it indicates operation
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Geoff Z
grsthegreat wrote:
Ya, looks like breaker issue. You could try unhooking all wires and cleaning and retorquing and check again. Otherwise try new breaker



Good advice. Also look at the wire itself. If corrosion or burning and there is enough slack, cut and strip back to good clean copper conductor
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78buckshot
After you replace the breaker and have the unit running, adjust the voltage regulator counter-clockwise to lower the voltage, 251 is too high.
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ozzie7
Thanks Folks.
I'll try cleaning the connections first and if that doesn't work, replace the breaker.
And I'll adjust the voltage too.
I'll post back later with the results.
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JayH
The breaker is probably bad, but the wires on the generator side have seen some serious overheating. The initial failure may have been that the screws weren't fully tightened. You'll want to strip back the wire until you get to bright unoxidized metal.
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ozzie7
OK Jay... will do.
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ozzie7
I put a new breaker in her and she's happy again.
Fortunately the wires were not oxidized.
No evidence of overheating... the screws on the old breaker for #11 and #44 do have a natural rose tint to them.

Set the voltage to 240, 241... whatever it takes.

Even though the Mud Daubers probly weren't the cause of the problem... I sprayed all the vents, openings etc. with Suspend insecticide.

Thanks everyone for your advice.
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78buckshot
Your welcome, glad we all could be of some benefit.
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