in2hockey
I'm in the process of finalizing the installation of a 45KW unit and was wondering what most people were running for synthetic oil in their bigger power-plants? As a mechanic I've always (and still do) run Castrol GTX full synthetic and since this thing has a car engine in it I was thinking that it would be just fine. Any thoughts/opinions? Also is there a Wix and/or Hastings cross-over for the Generac Oil Filter for this unit? The serial number is 300433337. Thanks guys!
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BrentB
No cross over! Generac filters are made with fire resistant media. Some of the filters are directly over the exhaust. The owners manual will have the exact oil recommendations for that unit. Yes, it is a car engine, but it is not being used in a car. The engine is configured to run in a completely different environment than a car!
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Cobranut
If this is a gas unit, I'd have no problem using the Castrol Synthetic, though I'm biased toward Mobil 1, and have had excellent service with it in my vehicles over many decades.
If diesel I use Rotella T6 Synthetic.
Whatever brand oil you use, make sure it meets the Generac specs, and is the proper viscosity for the climate it will operate in.

BrentB:  Not sure what a fire resistant media in an oil filter would accomplish, being that it's immersed in flammable motor oil and encased in a steel shell.
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in2hockey
I've been using Castrol about 30 years with great success but I'm leaning toward the Mobil 1, my Dad whose been in the industry (automotive) for nearly 60 years swears by it. What's the Generac oil filter part #? I couldn't find it in the owners manual or installation manual anywhere. All it says is to consult your Generac Dealer. I'd like to change the break-in oil after running it for a few hours rather then waiting 30 hours, one snowstorm would easily surpass the 30 hour mark and I don't want to be changing break-in oil in the middle of Winter... Thanks guys!
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in2hockey
Found the oil filter part #. Thanks!
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78buckshot
The recommended break-in time is designed to use the original oil. I don't have specs on the 45kw but for the small units tech support says 25 - 30 hours.
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in2hockey
Thanks 78buckshot, yeah owners manual says 30 hours. It's gonna suck if I hit that mark in the middle of a storm. Typically when we do loose power it's at least 4-5 days straight. Last Winter it was 10.... 
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Cobranut
I certainly wouldn't worry about it enough to change the oil during a storm.
If you can get 10 or more hours on it under load, I'd go ahead and change the oil just before the snow season starts, otherwise it shouldn't really hurt anything if it runs through an outage on the original oil either.

Heck, when I built the 427 big block in my Cobra, it barely had 250 street miles on it when I changed the oil and was turning it 7,000 rpm on the track.
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restosud
BrentB wrote:
No cross over! Generac filters are made with fire resistant media. Some of the filters are directly over the exhaust. The owners manual will have the exact oil recommendations for that unit. Yes, it is a car engine, but it is not being used in a car. The engine is configured to run in a completely different environment than a car!

think you're mistaking the air filter with the oil filter.
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78buckshot
in2hockey, you could run it occasionally when your outside working just to get a few more hours on it.
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Cobranut
78buckshot wrote:
in2hockey, you could run it occasionally when your outside working just to get a few more hours on it.


I'd be sure to load it though, as running unloaded will never seat the rings, and can result in an engine that burns oil for the rest of its life.

People have been conditioned to be easy on an engine during break-in, when the opposite is true.

It's a little harder to do on a genset engine that runs at a constant speed, but on any automotive engine I build, once it's warmed up, I run it moderately for an hour or so, then make several short-duration full throttle runs up to 90% of redline to build enough cylinder pressure to seat the rings.
Then it gets an oil change and if everything looks good it's ready for the track.
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in2hockey
Cobranut, I agree, when we were building race motors we used to say "break em in how you're gonna drive em". But here's the entire picture.... This 45kw that I'm installing is at my Bosses place, that's the only reason I was going to change the break-in oil sooner. I started another thread a few months back about a 13k that wasn't charging the battery while running, well guess who inherited that unit? ðŸ˜ My Boss decided that if he was ever to go another 10 days without power he didn't want to go without "All" the creature comforts.... So in wen't a 1000 gallon tank and a 45kw genny. What I can do though is prior to Winter coming go out there once a week and simulate an outage and let it run under load for a few hours at a time. Seems wasteful but like I said I don't want to be dealing with it in the middle of an outage.... 
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BillM
Not trying to sideline the conversation, but how long with the 1000 gallon tank last with a 45kW generator?
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in2hockey
At 100% load probably only about 4-5 days max. A 1000 gallon tank only holds 800 gallons, they only fill them 80% of capacity. Fortunately my boss does tend to be energy conscientious even under utility power so realistically at 50% load (which would be about 100 amps continuous) it would probably last 8-9 days.... It uses about 4 gallons an hour at 50% load.   
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in2hockey
Another question related to the oil/oil change. This unit has an automatic oil adding system. So this raises a question, during the break-in period while running the factory oil should I have it full and functioning or should I wait until after the first oil change? I'm leaning toward putting it into use because I don't see the harm if the 2 oil types need to run together for a short amount of time. In my opinion that would be better then the possibility of running low on oil during the break-in period. Thoughts??? 
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Cobranut
I'm with you.  I would have the oil makeup system functioning from the start.  Most "breakin" oils are just inexpensive conventional oils meant to be changed early to flush out any wear material from the new engine. 
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