bbboomer Show full post »
Geoff Z
Yes it is sometimes frustrating. It is always different where to find parts depending on what circa model we are looking at. We feel like detectives sometimes hunting parts for customers, and we spend a lot of time at it. Then a part number that was original to a generator may have been updated 1 or 2 times. Then the part search won't pull it up the current part number against the serial number. Have to be like a bulldog sometimes...
Quote
nrp3
Persistence is a virtue.  Having access to documentation for generators is key in finding what you need.  At least with the three brands I sell, I can usually find what I need.  Some of the other brands, especially ones no longer produced, it can be tough.
Quote
Geoff Z
If it was easy anybody could do it right! 😁
Quote
bbboomer
I received the fuses finally.
None of the three were blown.
I did replace them but there was no change.
The readings for N1, N2, and T1 remain essentially the same.
Next steps?
Quote
JayH

bbboomer wrote:
I received the fuses finally.
None of the three were blown.
I did replace them but there was no change.
The readings for N1, N2, and T1 remain essentially the same.
Next steps?


If your voltage readings to neutral are still as indicated in your previous post:

T1 = 3.6
N1 = 106
N2 = 122

it sure appears that the T1 and N1 fuses are blown. Another possibility is that the N1 leg is open upstream, but this would result in roughly half of the circuits in the house without power and 240-volt loads (stove, water heater, air conditioning) not working at all.

With your voltmeter on AC volts and the transfer switch in the normal utility position measure across each fuse, one probe on each side of the fuse. If the fuses are good you should see zero volts or certainly much less than one volt.

Also check N1, N2, T1 from the top side of the fuse, the side not connected to the generator, to neutral. Also measure from these points to ground. All of these measurements and those from the bottom of the fuses should be approximately 120 volts AC.

Look at the small wires coming to the top of the fuseholders to make sure that they are tight. If you aren't comfortable working on this, call your local dealer or an electrician. With the low voltage on T1 the battery in the generator will drain in a day or two and if left in this condition for a lengthy period it will be damaged.

Also if possible inspect the wiring between the switch and the generator for damage or water intrusion.

 

Quote
78buckshot
OK bbboomer, you have a transfer switch with a load shedding module known as a SACM, we are going to investigate that module a little now. The black plastic module that has the three fuses is the SACM, near the fuses in the bottom right corner is a plug-in connector with eight small multi-colored wires. Turn the generator off, unplug the eight pin connector. Looking at the socket on the MODULE the pins are numbered 1 - 8, #1 is the bottom left, 2, 3, 4 are in sequence above it. #5 is the bottom right and 6, 7, 8 are in sequence above it. So now you have to match the two connector halves in order to figure out pins #1, #3, #5, and #6 on the WIRED connector. Once you are sure that you have the wired end figured out you will use your ac volt meter, one test lead on the neutral buss and then check #1, 3, 5, and 6 one at a time. We are looking for 120 volts ac on each wire. That's enough for now, let us know what you have.
Quote
bbboomer
I checked the connector as instructed.
All pins show 126v with the exception of pin 5. It shows less than one volt.
Additionally pins and socket 1 thru 4 are black and appeared to have shorted.
There is no apparent damage to the pins, socket or wiring, just discolored. IMG_0859.jpeg  IMG_0860.jpeg 
Quote
78buckshot
Well, it looks like either the plug was not making good contact from the git-go or an electrical surge or lightning strike over amp'd the control. I'm not 100% sure of pin 5 but my book shows 5 and 6 being the same terminal designation at some point. Clean up the sockets and pins the best you can without doing any damage, the sockets are hot so to de-energize you will have to kill the main breaker. After you clean things up you can plug it back in and turn the main breaker back on. At the top of the fuses check for 120 volts at each and check for 240 from N1 to N2. If the results are the same as before then I suspect the SACM is trashed. Do you have a local service dealer that can replace it under warranty?
Quote
bbboomer
78 buckshot,
Thank you again.
I agree I think it possibly was a poor connection from the start.
From the looks of both pins and socket I doubt lightening or power surge. There is no damage at all that I can see.
I would expect to see signs of heat, arcing, burned insulation etc from lightening or surge.
I will try cleaning things up and inspect closer but I fear it is toast at this point.
I am not aware of a local dealer but will see what I can find.
Thank you so much for your help.
Darrell
Quote
BrianMartin
These connectors can be bumped by wire during the install pretty easily.. I tend to remove the clip while feeding wires into the switch, and plug it back in when i'm done.
Quote
bbboomer
Cleaned everything up as much as possible and plugged it back in.
There was no change to the readings.
I contacted a company to come out and see what is going on.
They are an approved repair facility and do warranty work.
They took down the info on my gen and will get everything they need from Generac.
Hopefully early next week. We will see.
Thank you you all for your help.
Darrell
Quote
78buckshot
The SACM is a little fragile, I have had to replace a couple of them, if you are comfortable with it I would call the repair folks and check with them to see if they will be bringing a new harness. I would not replace one without the other.
Quote
grsthegreat
i saw one like that a few months back, and when i pulled the board off of the mounting the back of the board was all burnt up. did not show anything on the face. was replaced under warranty
Quote
bbboomer
I did discover the wire to the upper coil, the Utility closing coil was barely connected. It came off while I was disconnecting the SACM plug.
It definitely may have been making intermittent contact.
I will mention I believe the SACM and harness should be replaced together so I would like the wire harness with the SACM.
All they can do is say no.
Quote
78buckshot
If they say no to the harness then they will be back at a later date to make the repair again, poor conductivity through the pins WILL result in overheated connectors and continued problems with the switch. I mentioned it in my prior post so they could be prepared with a new harness, it is not a part that Generac asks us to stock on our trucks, they may have to order it and set a new appointment with you.
Quote
bbboomer




I will be checking with them again tomorrow. I will insist they order the harness to prevent future recurrence. 
It will be money well spent.
Quote
bbboomer
Just an update.
The electrician brought the parts for my transfer switch.
New SACM, new wire harness. 
Only took a few days to get the parts and they came out the following day and installed them.
Everything is working great now.
The bad battery warning is gone the battery is good again.
The power went off yesterday for the first time since the repair. The gen worked just as it should, gen started up and power came on as soon as the warmup cycle completed.
It was just off for a few minutes and the gen shut down as soon as the utility came back on line.
Everything is great!
The repair facility did a great job. Received the parts quickly and came out to do the inspection and repair as soon as they received them.
The electrician showed me the old SACM, it had a big burned area on the back. It could not be seen without removing the SACM. He did not know what caused the problem but agreed the wire harness needed to be replaced as well. Great call 78buckshot!
Thanks again to all for your help.
Quote
78buckshot
  Send a big thank you to Ziller Electric for keeping this forum alive in these rough economic times. Thank you for the update, the power of these forums is many minds working on the issue and two-way communication so we all know what the outcome is.
Quote