Wireform
Generac 22 kw NG, model #65510, serial #9519560 
Not sure of any previous history, display shows 4 hours run time so basically new. Had yellow and red light on side panel. Display had an overcrank and error 1100. I manually started it and it had what I think was a slightly longer crank, it started but ruff and smoothed out nicely when I moved the orange fuel lever off a bit from completely on the natural gas position. Shut it down and started it several times with a normal crank time. Tried to simulate a power outage by turning off the house main but it would not start even though it was set to auto. Where do I look ?
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Peddler
Are you saying that it does not crank or just won't start?  What does the display say when you cut the feed breaker?  
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Wireform
Display shows auto and I think ready and after the main switch off in the house panel I went out to the generator and waited but not even a crank as if it wasn't notified to kick on. 
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Peddler
And what did the display say at that point?
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Discover
Did you turn the main off in the transfer switch ??? If you turn the main off in the electrical panel it will not trigger the generator
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Wireform
Peddler wrote:
And what did the display say at that point?

Discover
No change at the generator.
Now I see your question about the switch. My own generator is not a whole house transfer switch and has the transfer switch that gets the juice from the main panel so when I shut off power at the main panel it signals the transfer switch. This whole house transfer switch gets the juice before the main panel therefore shutting off the main breaker in the main panel does didle squat. I will open the transfer switch tomorrow and trip I guess N1 or N2 or some kind of main breaker in there and see what happens. 
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Geoff Z
If the transfer switch is fed from the utility meter and the correct one is used it will have a main breaker in it. Turning it off will simulate a power outage. Turning it back on will simulate utility restoration. You should never have to disturb any wiring to accomplish testing. 
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MacL
The fuel selector pin is not an adjustment, it is simply the orifice selector.  While it may seem to solve a problem, "adjusting" this pin will cause more problems than it solves, no doubt about that. I have a number of things I do to address this problem, but closing down the orifice is not an option, even for a second.  I'd rather add air than cut gas, if I felt the AF ratio was off.

However fuel pressure must be at a minimum.

Also the selector can be easily damaged if moved, and the damage would cause an Overcrank or long crank times.
State your problem, not your diagnosis.
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Geoff Z
Thanks for explaining that MacL. I was wondering that myself. I have always understood the selector to be either NG or LP. Not an adjustment for AF mixture.  
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Pville
Geoff Z wrote:
Thanks for explaining that MacL. I was wondering that myself. I have always understood the selector to be either NG or LP. Not an adjustment for AF mixture.  
 

Just over 5 years ago I began a post on the fuel selector pin issues I had with my 14kw, 6241.  The original post had some great photos of the fuel pin and its gasket but it appears that the change in Forum hosting has removed the photos.  Here's a link to that original post, and as stated by MacL, the fuel pin is not an adjustment.

https://www.zillerstore.com/post/ng-to-lpg-conversion-knob-issues-9945394?&trail=15
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Wireform
MacL wrote:
The fuel selector pin is not an adjustment, it is simply the orifice selector.  While it may seem to solve a problem, "adjusting" this pin will cause more problems than it solves, no doubt about that. I have a number of things I do to address this problem, but closing down the orifice is not an option, even for a second.  I'd rather add air than cut gas, if I felt the AF ratio was off.

However fuel pressure must be at a minimum.

Also the selector can be easily damaged if moved, and the damage would cause an Overcrank or long crank times.

Thanks, I hear you on the selector lever. So I have two questions to follow, 
A) what is the gas pressure I'm looking for and where do I check it on this generator?
B) if gas pressure is right and moving the selector to NG creates the non smooth running  motor what would be the next thing to do. 
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Wireform
Update:
Got back to the generator on the weekend and removed outer and inner cover from transfer switch. Next I checked N1,N2, and the third fuse and all proved not to be blown. I next went to the generator to read the display to be sure all is clear and ready to run which it was. I flipped the transfer main, generator started and then transferred the load which at the time was 6 amps both legs. So now I know it works.
I observed several issues which remain to be corrected. The crank time was longer then I care and definitely needs attention which is probably the fuel pin/selector problem if my gas pressure proves to be within 5"-7" wc. My options are to remove the pin and replace the gaskets Part#0K2236 or change the complete pin as a kit part#0K7694ASRV. Will call    Ziller on those numbers.
The other issue I noticed is a weak crank possibly a battery issue. I would like to know how to differentiate between a charging problem and or a battery problem. How can I test that charging is taking place and not that the battery is just sitting there getting weaker. Thanks in advance to all the generous help I'm getting.

Allan 
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