mikroland
Hi, I have a 1997 generac model 97A01855-S  serial number 2034148 and type is SG015-A161.6N18CDYNC

The issue I have with it is once I start the engine via the manual start switch, some of the AC wires coming from the HZ meter that feed the governor control board get very hot and melt the insulation off of these wires. So I have to immediately shut down the engine.

Has anyone run into a similar situation or know what the problem could be?

thanks,
Mike
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Peddler
Either the meter or the gov. control board has a short would be my guess.  If it seems to be running the correct speed then I would disconnect the meter and see what you have.
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mikroland
Peddler wrote:
Either the meter or the gov. control board has a short would be my guess.  If it seems to be running the correct speed then I would disconnect the meter and see what you have.


How can I bypass the HZ meter? Do I just connect the two leads together that feed this HZ meter or should I just leave them completely disconnected and try running the machine?
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murphy
Leave them disconnected and insulate the ends so they don't short to anything.
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mikroland
murphy wrote:
Leave them disconnected and insulate the ends so they don't short to anything.


But according to this diagram, shouldn't these wires should be tied together?

See the yellow highlighted areas near the HZ object on the schematic.

https://www.microlandcomputers.com/mike/a2810.pdf
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Cobranut
Connect the wires common to each terminal together, but do not connect the two terminals together.
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mikroland
Got it, will try and report back. Thanks!
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mikroland
OK, I bypassed the HZ meter and burnt wires. Now the unit starts but then immediately kills.
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mikroland
Cobranut wrote:
Connect the wires common to each terminal together, but do not connect the two terminals together.


I should clarify, I bypassed the HZ meter and replaced the burned wires. Now when I start the machine the engine starts but then immediately kills itself. I also didn't mention that the last time the machine ran and when I noticed the burned wires there was an electrical pop. Not sure if this shorted HZ meter fried one of the boards or not. Since the generator won't stay running now would this indicate possibly a bad governor board, voltage regulator, main control board, or what? I wouldn't think it's the main control board since that's DC related only and the engine does start. It just does not stay running now.
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mikroland
anyone have any ideas?
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murphy
Test the HZ meter with an ohmmeter to see if it is really shorted to make sure the problem is not somewhere else.
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mikroland
murphy wrote:
Test the HZ meter with an ohmmeter to see if it is really shorted to make sure the problem is not somewhere else.


Tested with Ohm meter, the meter slowly builds up to 40 MOhms but then goes back to zero. So I connected 120V AC 60HZ power to the meter and the meter does not move. So I think the meter is dead.
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murphy
mikroland wrote:


Tested with Ohm meter, the meter slowly builds up to 40 MOhms but then goes back to zero. So I connected 120V AC 60HZ power to the meter and the meter does not move. So I think the meter is dead.


If the meter was shorted it would have immediately tripped the breaker for the circuit that you connected it to.  It could have has a momentary short that in addition to melting the wires destroyed the circuitry in the meter.
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JayH
According to the diagram posted above, there are multiple wires connected to the frequency meter, the S15 and S16 wires plus the two blue wires going to the GCB. The frequency meter may be designed for 240 volts and thus might not operate at 120V so your outlet test may not be accurate. If the meter didn't pop the breaker of the 120V circuit it probably isn't shorted. 

It's entirely possible that there's nothing wrong with the frequency meter and the wires are overheating because of a short elsewhere. The meter is acting as a tie point between S15/S16 and the blue wires going to the GCB. I'd look for a short elsewhere or a defective GCB.
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Peddler
As I recall the one time I have had melted wires around the HZ meter I ended up having to replace the GCB as well. 
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mikroland
Guys, you were correct. I put the HZ meter back in. Checked more wires carefully. Found a broken ground wire and two more damaged wires that were possible arching. I repaired all of this.

So now I got the generator started and running. All gauges look good. However, the Volts and Amps gauges are zero. I am new to this generator. Does this mean it's zero because I am operating with no load?

I put my volt meter on the generator breaker and I am reading 244 Volts and I also checked the frequency with my meter and it's reading 59.9-60HZ which is perfect.

What are your thoughts on the Volt meter and amp meter at zero?

thanks guys!
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Peddler
Most of the units with meters have a drum switch which changes what you are reading.  If the switch is set to 0 or off it may not show anything on the meters.  Do not turn the drum switch while the unit is running as this could cause the damage you have seen.
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murphy
No load would give a 0 amps reading.
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mikroland
I think the drum switch is burnt and this is why the unit is showing zero volts on the panel meter. I will replace this switch and see what happens. But I cannot get over that the price of this plastic drum switch is 300 bucks!!! Got to be an alternate way to handle this.
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Peddler
I would not worry about the unit mounted gauges, they serve no real purpose.  If you have it operating and nothing is burning I would stop where you are and save your money. 
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w7dms
If you want panel meters check out digital panel meters on e-say. Yes they need metal hole fillers to mount them on.  Thank you for the  wiring diagram, best one I have found yet.
note:  I have a 97A04677S  SD012, 12kw with Mazda 2.2l diesel. 
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