ignote Show full post »
ignote
Thanks for getting back to me. I really appreciate you checking with Generac.
A one to one replacement I could probably handle as long as I can get it back to the install location.

I see Costco has the Honeywell/Generac generators on sale right now. Are these the newer generators or an older model?
[url]https://www.costco.com/Honeywell-17-kW-Automatic-Standby-Generator.product.100313165.html[/url]
It comes with the transfer switch which I don;t really need so I guess I could sell that.

Quote
Peddler
You need to be careful, not everyone can do warranty work on Honeywell labeled product. My advice would be to buy one you can get serviced by a local dealer. We are too far away to be doing minor service on what ever you buy.
Quote
ignote
Ok. I was just checking.
Looks like it’s not the new engine anyway.
Quote
ignote
Do you think I could replace the rotor and stator myself? I was looking over the disassembly instructions and other than popping the rotor off the drive shaft, it doesn't look too complicated.
I was thinking about pulling the rotor and stator off to verify that the engine would turn anyway. I mean. What do I have to lose at this point? Even if I fail doing this before purchasing parts, I'm not out any money and could still hire it fixed or buy a new one. If Peddler wasn't an hour from me, I would have him look at it.
Quote
Peddler
If you have moderate mechanical ability and a strong back you should be able to get them off. When they come apart like this you normally have to pop off the stator and rotor together, be careful where your fingers are when it lets go.
Quote
restosud
just pull it off.
as you've said,nothing to lose at this point and it's not very complicated machinery to begin with.
Quote
nrp3
You’ll probably need an extra rotor bolt to cut down and slot with a Dremel tool so you can thread it in with a slotted screw driver. I forget which size bolt you need to thread into the rotor itself. A steering wheel puller is needed to pop the plastic fan off.
Quote
ignote
I’ll probably give this a try but not until weekend after next. I will report back then.
I also checked the hour meter and the unit only has 128 hours on it so it may be worth fixing if I can get 10 more years out of it. :)
Quote
nrp3
I suppose the worst thing you'd find once you got both the rotor and stator off was the engine was still seized.
Quote
ignote
I got a parts quote from Ziller but I also got a repair quote from a local Generac dealer. The labor on repair to replace the rotor,stator, bearing and brushes was $1340. That seems pretty high to me. They also said that they would not perform the repair either. I?m not sure why you would provide a quote if you were going to decline the work anyway. They said that they didn?t want to perform the repair for fear that something else could be wrong. They did say they would be happy to provide an estimate to replace the unit.
Quote
Peddler
The labor for that job should be under 5 hours including normal travel. It is job but if they know what they are doing it isn't a big deal.
Quote
ignote
The hard part of removing the rotor is done. I still need to disconnect the wiring. What is the likelihood I put the new parts on and it has a problem? Can the rotor and stator seizing cause other problems?

Quote
78buckshot
Can you turn the engine over by hand, pull the plugs and try to rotate it a least two full turns, check the taper on the end of the crankshaft, don't want to see any signs of scoring from the stator slipping on the crankshaft. A couple of times when covered under warranty Generac sent stator, rotor, rotor bolt, brush holder, and a new controller. I have not run into any engine trouble caused by rotor delam.
Quote
ignote
It turns over just fine with the rotor removed. With the plugs removed I used the starter to crank the engine.
So what do I need to do at the transfer switch and generator before I attempt to disconnect the stator wiring?
What does it mean in the service manual when it says to remove utility power from the generator?
I understand pulling the N1 and N2 fuses in the transfer switch and pulling the 7.5 main fuse.
Quote
78buckshot
To remove utility power you need to remove N1, N2, T1 if it has one or if the battery charger is on it's own line (120 - 240 volts) disconnect it. Disconnect the battery. The 7.5 amp fuse is on the 12 volt dc supply to the controller, you can pull it but not needed if everything else is pulled.
Quote
ignote
So, I can leave the thing disconnected/fuses pulled until the new rotor and stator comes?
Quote
78buckshot
Yup, just don't leave the battery connected as it will keep the controller active and be dead in a couple of days.
Quote