dgree
2006, Model 0052840, S/N 4428380, 16 kw propane driven Generac.

Engine always starts and runs great. No real problems other than this past Christmas mornings power failure. Generator started, but no transfer. It was nasty out windy, blowing snow about -2 F. I figured the main breaker tripped? Went out checked the main breaker, it wasn't tripped, manually switched over the transfer still no power. Buttoned everything up and left her running. Celebrated Christmas in candle light. Which was actually pretty fun. About 3 hours later the grid power came back on and she cycled off.

So I went out later that day to check things over. Fuses, continuity maybe a mouse ate something? I read and got familiar with the wiring diagram. I measured resistance between (wires 44 - 33 & 11 - 22) the 2 main stator windings. Each measured 2 ohms. Neither were shorted or grounded. I checked each line out individually.

Next the brush assembly (wires 2 - 4) measured 14.4 ohms.

The DPE winding measured (wires 6 - 2) measured 1 ohm.

Now what I learned from this site. When you have no output power you should check the rotor impedance. Wires 2 & 4 It should be approximately 20 ohms for a 16kw. If its lower than 20 then more than likely the brushes are stuck and have to be flashed with 12 volts.

With the main generator breaker off and meter connected to L1 & L2 started the generator and measured 2.5 volts output. Pulled wire 4 off the voltage regulator and put +12 volts from the battery to it. Main power came up to 85 volts and climbed as high as 97. But that was it. Measured each line to neutral and they were the same about 45 volts. One thing I did notice, every time I put 12v to wire 4 the light on the voltage regulator would come on???

Any recommendations?

Hope its not a bad stator or brush assembly if it is the generator will be pulled and worked on in my garage. Its too cold out there...
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dgree
First of all this is great site. I belong to a few snowmobiling sites and this is right up there with them. Now for the Generator....

Why I don't practice what I preach beats me? Get the manual and read it. Thanks Kelly.

Performed Test 4 "Fixed Excitation Test" recorded all the readings.

Wires 2 - 6 = 148 volts

Wires 11 - 22 = 107 volts

Static rotor amp draw = 1.1 amps

Running rotor amp draw = .8

These readings fell in group "A" Under test results. Which leads to

Test 5 Wire "0"Continuity.
Tested "Good"

next go to

Test 6 Field Boost
Wire 4 voltage while cranking only = 10.6 volts dc, which is normal.

This equals a bad voltage regulator. I hope this is right?

From what I understand during cranking the field boost (crank relay in the main control board) is putting current on the positive brushes, looking for power sensed by wires 11 - 22 on the VR. Now once the generator is running it relies on the DPE winding to generate power for the voltage regulator to convert to dc current and send that to the positive brushes based again on what's sensed on wires 11 - 22. So the Voltage regulator senses voltage with a dc current output.

Now with the Voltage regulator (VR) being burnt out it can't put dc current to the rotor.

Well I convinced myself so lets hope it works. I'll replace the VR and follow up next week.
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dgree
It worked, but now a fried starter

Replaced the V.R.
Tested and set up the voltage. Shut her down and left in the auto mode. Disconnected the grid power and she started right up and transfered perfectly. The most draw I recorded was 30 amps. After running 45 minutes I restored the grid power and cycled off. Button everything up. Went to set the weekly exercise and nothing, just the starter relay kicking in. I had the starter out and on the bench in 15 minutes. The motor is either burn't or seized gears.

The generator was installed 10/06, starter replaced 8/07, voltage regulator1/25/09 and now needs another starter??? Kinda sucks.....

The bendix gears do look worn, just on there tips. When the generator was running it didn't sound like the starter was still engaged? Actually the generator sounded nice and smooth.

I heard Generac starter's matches a Saturn style automotive starter. I'll be bringing both starters to a repair shop hoping he can make 1 good one out of 2.

I'm not all that happy, but would still recommend a Generac.

0052840 16kw propane
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Skip Douglas SkipD
Glad to hear you're getting things resolved....
Skip Douglas
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Geoff Z
Email me if you can't get the 2nd starter covered under warranty....
BTW, your post here is what helps a lot of people troubleshoot. Thanks for posting up your final results.
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dgree
No warranty

I called my local dealer. They notified Generac which said no way. No warranty. "There's no problems or issues with starters" They also said I can call them direct and place a claim, but doupt anything will happen. The dealer has a new starter for $145.00.

The starter rebuild shop said he couldn't repair the old starters but he can get a new replacement starter will cost $100.00.

This will be my 3rd starter in 2-1/2 years. Something doesn't seem right here?

You think I should make a claim?
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DanB
I called my local dealer. They notified Generac which said no way. No warranty. "There's no problems or issues with starters" They also said I can call them direct and place a claim, but doupt anything will happen. The dealer has a new starter for $145.00.

The starter rebuild shop said he couldn't repair the old starters but he can get a new replacement starter will cost $100.00.
QUOTE]

[sarcasm]I'm shocked I tell you, shocked[/sarcasm]

Did you happen to ask your starter shop if it was an OEM starter (same mfg) or non-OEM. If there is an mfg defect, its possible it wont be in the non-OEM starter.
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dgree
[sarcasm]I'm shocked I tell you, shocked[/sarcasm]

Did you happen to ask your starter shop if it was an OEM starter (same mfg) or non-OEM. If there is an mfg defect, its possible it wont be in the non-OEM starter.

I know Dan, tell me about it. I feel like I have to keep 2 spare starters on hand. Pretty sad.

I'll called the starter guy and left a message. He told me before, but I forgot what he said???

Now whats Generac replacement manaufacturer? Same as before? I know the part number hasn't changed.

Any help is better than no help???
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dgree
Starter Manufactures

Ok Dan here we go. From the starter guru.....

One bad starter was manufactured by Mando and the other was by Valeo. He said there probably the same company? But wasn't sure. He's going to look around for another manufacturer and call me back.
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DanB
dgree;3727 wrote:
Ok Dan here we go. From the starter guru.....

One bad starter was manufactured by Mando and the other was by Valeo. He said there probably the same company? But wasn't sure. He's going to look around for another manufacturer and call me back.


He's probably right. A quick Google search for Mando + Valeo shows them usually in the same sentence (if not right next to each other).
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johnc
mando and valeo, american companies, manufactured in the usa?
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dgree
All fixed.....

After replacing the Voltage Regulator, then the Starter and finally the Control Board. The old girl is up and on-line again, with the help of this site she's all set. I want to thank you all....

Ive been having a tough couple of weeks on equipment. Everything seems to break or cost $$$ at the same time.

Tractor blew a rear tire...$500.00
Genertor parts...............$500.00
Snowmobile parts...........$600.00
2-1/2 Cord of Wood........$440.00
Snowmobile ride for CF....$500.00
1/2 a beef cow..............$650.00

The satisfaction and gradituide of repairing and doing things yourself Priceless.....
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johnc
D: looks like you got a better stimulas package going for the economy than the fed.
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adam
Hi,
Adam here, having the same problem dgree had. Performed test 4 and recorded similar values. Replaced voltage regulator, but still have only residual voltage. I did notice when I did test, I had approx 50 volts dc on wire 4, instructions said I should have 0 before cranking. I did get the correct 10 volts dc when cranking however. Any advice? I think it may be a bad circuit board?
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adam
:confused: Hi,
Adam here, having the same problem dgree had. Performed test 4 and recorded similar values. Replaced voltage regulator, but still have only residual voltage. I did notice when I did test, I had approx 50 volts dc on wire 4, instructions said I should have 0 before cranking. I did get the correct 10 volts dc when cranking however. Any advice? I think it may be a bad circuit board?
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