Lakee911
Model #:  0062470
Serial #:  8467379
Total run hours:  136ish?
Fuel source: NG or LP:  NG
Length of fuel run:  Dunno ... 45'?
Diameter of fuel pipe:  1-1/2 or 1-1/4
Last maintenance date:  Dec '19
Last valve adjustment date:  Never
Last battery replacement date:  Never
Error Code:  None! That's the problem!

Hello. Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe out there.
I went out to check the generator and found the display dead today. Buttons unreponsive. No LEDs. Battery is 13.7V and it did it's last weekly test one week ago today. 7.5A Fuse is NOT blown.Green lamp looked very dim, but I got the controller completely disconnected and it looked the same so I assume it was the sunlight. 

Killed power to the house and it didn't start.

I disconnected the controller from all harnesses and reconnected it. No change. 

I got the controller out and opened up. There were some dead ants on the bottom of the controller housing, but I found no evidence of more than about 3 ants on the actual circuit board. It was actually very clean. There are some very minor hot spots near the display header and the USB port, but nothing obviously burnt/friend/exploded/leaking. 

What do y'all recommend I check next?



 
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grsthegreat

That is odd that battery was fully charged and controller dead. Since you did complete power down and repower, more than likely it’s a dead controller. HOWEVER

did you check the t1 fuse within the transfer switch. THERE are 3 fuses in switch. They are labeled N1, N2 and T1. T1 is used to power controller and it’s associated battery charger. I usually remove the fuses to check them to make sure your not testing a fake backfeed. The fuse is not located on generator. It’s in the transfer switch.

if it’s blown, it can affect the controller display, but I would have thought the screen would light up powered from battery. 

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Lakee911
Thanks for the response. Fuses N1 and N2 are both good. Pulled them out and checked them just now. T1 is coming from a breaker in my panel. Its feed is good too. 

Maybe someone else will chime in with the magic answer?
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78buckshot
First thing is to try a battery that is known to be good and make sure that the battery cables are both clean and tight at both ends of the cables, this means feeling behind the engine for the ground(-12volt) cable. You don't need to have a group 26 battery to test the system, just a good battery set outside the compartment. Disconnect the ORIGINAL battery and get the good one hooked up.
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Lakee911
Thanks, 78. I can give that a try... I do still have the controller sitting on my workbench, however. It would be easier for me to test it with a 12V power supply.  Do we know what pins are used to power the controller?
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Lakee911
I remembered that I have the diagnostic repair manual and I found the pinout for each connector. I've identified connector J1 pins 1 and 2 as 12V (both wire 13), but I cannot find the ground. J1 pin 13 says, "Common Ground (DC) DC Field Excitation Ground" but I think it's an error. Connector J3 shows the same label for pin 1, but the rest of the connector is also for field excitation. Thoughts?
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Lakee911
That was the proper pin for ground.

I also found the problem for my controller. Voltage Regulator U23 failed. I'm not sure why, but it's got a very slight deformity to the surface of the chip and a corresponding hot/burn mark to the inside of the controller housing. Very faint electronic burnt/smoke smell when I put my nose to it. The only problem is that due to the deformity, I cannot identify the writing on the chip to even see about replacing it.

That voltage regulator is for 5V. I backfed the output w/ a 5V power supply and it's powering up. It's complaining of an ident problem with the resistor.

Does anyone happen to have an Evolution 0J8371A controller board available to check U23 for me? Or, heck, if one is destined for the trash ... I'll gladly pay shipping for it.
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78buckshot
I'm sorry, I don't have any old Evolution controllers to disassemble for the part number.
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UPS
Does it look like this - with 3 pins?  This is one very common type of regulator:

https://components101.com/7805-voltage-regulator-ic-pinout-datasheet
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Lakee911
@78buckshot Thanks just the same.

@UPS it looks very much like that but the package is slightly different package. Same pin out except pin two is short and the back/heatsink is at the same potential as pin 2. Mine is surface mount and likely smaller.

I installed an external regulator with a new connection to the board so I can backfeed the 5V. All is well and I'll probably just leave it this way. I added a some additional fusing too.


Interestingly enough, if I pull the 12V 7.5 fuse, the controller's processor now stays up to tell me that its a fuse blown/out/problem. Normally that fuse takes the controller down and you lose the display so it cannot report itself as being out. Bit of a weird design... 
 
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